tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-91398258243300060322024-03-21T10:16:50.192-07:00An African WeddingWords from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-64786041210848974272012-08-07T11:50:00.000-07:002012-08-07T11:50:26.624-07:00The way to Kirawira...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Another early start... We were both commenting on how wonderful it was going to be in Zanzibar, lying in late and relaxing - these 5.00am starts were murder...<br />
We woke and began packing, both of us in a daze. Funny how everything fit our bags and cases perfectly on the way out, but at 5.00am, in a dark room in the heart of Africa, I`d be buggered if I could fit my bloody jeans in.<br />
Showered, changed and with bags badly packed and leaking clothes, we called reception for the porters and headed up for breakfast.<br />
The smell of Africa is something that will stay with me forever. It is completely alien to the UK, or anywhere else I have been - except one very special place in Solihull (more on this later!) - and these short morning walks on the open walkways flooded the senses.<br />
Breakfast was a subdued affair. We both loved the crater and the lodge so much that we were, in some sense, a little worried about moving on.<br />A few cups of Killimanjaro Tea and some eggs later we had calmed the butterflies in our stomachs and headed off to reception to settle the bill.<br />
Salvatory pulled up as we said our thank you's and goodbye's and by the time we finished he already had our bags loaded, along with another superb packed lunch. The mist around the top of the crater slowly peeled away as we descended, but this time away from our beloved reserve, and towards the Serengeti...<br />
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We knew we had a long drive ahead, but it would be broken up by a few visits, and some game sightings, so we were looking forward to the day a great deal. The trees that peppered the plains around us were whistling acacias - ants desire the insides of the pods and to that end burrow holes inside, leaving the outer case alone; the wind then blows through and creates the keening whistle...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whistling Acacia</td></tr>
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All of a sudden Salvatory turned and shouted. I had no idea what he said, and my heart hammered in my chest - I`d read too many news reports and had visions of armed bandits barrelling over the plain to kill and rob us... ;-)<br />
But what Salvatory had actually said was `giraffe!!!`. Phillipa had been as keen to see giraffes as she was to see a kill and the spoilt girl got it all...<br />
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The giraffes at the side of the road were mother and child - the umbilical cord still hung from the mother and the child stayed close.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mother and baby</td></tr>
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They stood in the sun and gently picked at an umbrella acacia. Time was tight, and so we didn`t have as much time as we would have liked to view them, but we needn`t have worried, after that first sighting we seemed to see them everywhere, although we needed Salvatory to spot them first - considering their size they are remarkably difficult to see.<br />
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The Masaai village we were scheduled to visit then hove into view as soon as we stepped from the jeep the son of the chief took me to one side, and the ladies of the camp took Phillipa to another.<br />
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I was then instructed on leaping and off I went - these guys can`t half jump. There was one other family visiting and whilst he and I could not approach the height of the Masaai, I got a lot higher than he did :-)<br />
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Phillipa`s turn next. Singing and clapping. Both involve timing and bless her, she really has none... It made for pretty painful viewing I can tell you, but the women gracefully ignored the issue.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You want me to clap? In time? </td></tr>
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They made a fuss of us when they heard that we were soon to be married, and a little ceremony ensued. I was walked through the camp gate by the men, lead by the chief`s son. We then fanned out, me in the middle ,and turned as one; the women then escorted Phillipa into the camp amidst much cheering and singing.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Da dum da dummm, da dum da dummm</td></tr>
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They handed her to me - more cheers. Phillipa asked if we were now married in Masaai eyes and they chuckled, saying that of course we weren`t, they just wanted us to feel a bit special...<br />
We were escorted to the chief's hut and upon entering were told about the Masaai way of life, and about how important their cattle are to their survival.<br />
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The cattle provide all the necessary minerals and nutrients for the Masaai as they drink their blood and milk and, eventually, kill and eat them. Cattle dung is also used to help create their dwellings, binding together the branches and foliage that comprises their walls and rooves - it also acts an excellent base for fueling the fires within the hut. As for the smell created by all this dung? It`s not bad. It`s there, but it`s not what I expected.<br />
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We were then taken to the school, a large ramshackle hut filled with beaming kids, a teacher and a chalkboard. They might not have the facilities of the western world, but everyone there spoke Swahili and English. And that`s one more language than I can speak...<br />
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Then came the sales pitch that we had been warned about - we picked up a few bracelets and treats for the nieces and nephews and a small shield with a giraffe design. We were taken off to one side and the price was etched into the dusty floor of the plain with a stick. Then came the negotiation...<br />
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Back in the jeep once more we headed to Oldupai Gorge, the cradle of mankind...<br />
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Oldupai is named for the wild sisal plants nearby, and it is considered the cradle of mankind as it is the site of footprints, indistinguishable from humans today, but now almost 3.6 million years old... The museum is small, but gives an impressive view over the gorge and houses some fantastic artefacts. A local expert gave a phenomenal talk, telling us of the various layers of the site, and how we evolved from Homo Habilis, through Homo Erectus to Homo Sapien and Sapien-Sapien. I made a load of notes, but shan`t bore you with them here ;-)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The gorge</td></tr>
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We left the gorge a little in awe at what we had seen. There were still more sights on route however as we passed huge granite rock formations flowering from the flat plain - Simba Kopjes, so called as lion prides will upon them, soaking up the sun - groves of sausage trees, past herds of Impala and Dik Dik, past a lazing Lion and even a herd of Elephants with many young babies eating and snorting.<br />
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And then we reached the border and readied to cross into the Serengeti National Park.<br />
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Salvatory dodged the queues by joining a collegue at the front of the snaking line of guides. Phillipa and I had a short time to walk the small hill and take in the views, Ngorongoro far to our left and the Serengeti ('plain with no end' in Swahili) to our right.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Serengeti beckons...</td></tr>
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We hopped back into the patrol to continue our journey, and thankfully, we were nearing the end... It was dark as we arrived at Kirawira, but as Salvatory pulled up to the camp, a bright light shone into the car. Salvatory chuckled and said it was the film crew who had been waiting for us to arrive. We laughed, but then swiftly realised he wasn't joking... Feeling incredibly self conscious we exited the jeep and walked toward the main camp area, followed by the camera crew...<br />
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Next up: Kirawira</div>Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-23576743803335459022012-01-11T10:34:00.000-08:002012-01-11T10:34:04.304-08:00The last part of the Second Game Drive...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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21st June 2011<br />
The experience of seeing a kill is something that will stay with us both for the rest of our lives, and at this point in our travels it had had such an impact that we had a bit of difficulty focusing on anything else.<br />
We were taking a circuitous route back to the lodge, though we were eager to get back - the adrenaline surge watching the kill had passed and we knew that the next day was going to be a long one; overlanding to the Serengeti and Kirawira.<br />
On route, I caught a glimpse of what initially looked like an odd rock to my left, and Salvatory slowed and stopped. On closer inspection (and with Salvatory telling us!) we discovered that it was an elephant skull.<br /><br />
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The elephant in question had reached about 60 years of age before dying. Elephants will move to particular areas when they are dying of old age, because at a great old age their molars fall out... When that happens they need to seek out marshes and softer grass. This elephant was searching for such, but didn't make it before starvation felled him.<br />
It was quite an event in the crater. A body of this size attracts a great deal of scavengers. Hyenas have the strongest jaws, and were the first to be able to break the skin of the dead beast, as even partly decomposed Elephant hide is too much for many animals.<br />
The hyenas, though first to break the flesh, would suffer as a result. Some of the first hyenas were pushed and crowed from the other animals behind, and were physically forced into the belly of the elephant. Such was the crush that those first hyenas suffocated and died within the elephant. More food for the masses behind...<br />
The story and sight served as yet another reminder that nature, whilst having created such an abundance of wonder and beauty, is yet remarkably cruel...<br />
We finished the day watching elephants at a watering hole near the road to the crater rim, before heading up and taking our last lingering looks over the crater.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our last look at the Crater... Tomorrow - The Serengeti!</td></tr>
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We hit the lodge and changed quickly for dinner. We both felt so comfortable here that there was a little trepidation over the thought of travelling the next day. I think we both could have happily stayed here all week...<br />
We were in time to grab a Tusker from the bar, and have a seat while the local Maasai performed a dance - a pretty riotous affair with lots of drums and jumping. We had sat around the circular fire in the middle of the bar area, and the heat and beer really hit us. We finished it quickly and headed upstairs for food, both aware that we had maybe an hour left before we passed out.<br />
The food was fantastic again, and we washed it all down with some more Tusker. Stomachs bulging, tired and full of wonder over what tomorrow would bring, we headed back to our room to pack, to sleep and to dream.<br />
Next:<br />
Giraffes, Oldupai gorge, a visit to a Maasai village and pure luxury at Kirawira Luxury Tented Camp... Oh yeah, and the wedding!</div>
</div>Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-1123718901599535292011-10-12T12:22:00.000-07:002011-10-12T12:22:54.029-07:00The Kill!!! (Second Game Drive)WARNING: GRAPHIC KILL PHOTOS!!<br />
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21st June 2011<br />
As we rode the track towards the north we saw a number of vehicles parked up, all quietly watching the zebras in the long grasses to the east.<br />
Salvatory brought us to a stop next to another jeep, and leaned across the Patrol to chat to the guide. He then moved us back a touch, to ensure that guides view was no longer blocked, and told us what he had learnt.<br />
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He whispered...<br />
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"A lion has been spotted. She is hunting the zebra..."<br />
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Making wide eyes at each other, Phillipa and I jumped up, she with her binos, me with my camera. I cracked the zoom to full extension and pointed towards the area Salvatory had gestured toward. I quickly prepped the camera for continuous shooting, and looked through the viewfinder with a dry mouth.<br />
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And literally that quickly, it happened...<br />
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Salvatory had put us immediately right in front of the action - there was not a better spot than the one we occupied - we were not the first there, nor the last, but we had the best spot without a doubt!<br />
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I heard a harsh, "there she goes" from Salvatory, and then intakes of breath all around me. My finger depressed the shutter button even before I had seen movement. The camera started taking shot after shot, 3.4 every second... We were extremely lucky, and we got the whole story:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pow!!! Here she comes, out of nowhere...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lions will attack like this as zebra's backs are weak - it's the easiest way to bring them down...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zebra nearly getting away...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">But the lioness is too quick... Notice the unconcerned zebra in the background!!</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYH59H16eXQLZITmq4SGjx3iu6BH0qotBRwq4qfYdYol7mgmUAXrl7qI95oU9ACEFBMmJzJ5W3vPfeI_u2-EeZop2-fn3x-vC1bWtKPYNJp3mkDBeNfxERj7LYNKO6bycmJ1tgpbPD_A/s1600/Kill+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOYH59H16eXQLZITmq4SGjx3iu6BH0qotBRwq4qfYdYol7mgmUAXrl7qI95oU9ACEFBMmJzJ5W3vPfeI_u2-EeZop2-fn3x-vC1bWtKPYNJp3mkDBeNfxERj7LYNKO6bycmJ1tgpbPD_A/s640/Kill+9.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF5RBZUFQ3httaod8U3UJjkA39vt_LyFnkiBsmkqetiRZ4ryxWvhokKAR0S1bcRzHQupDpHo6dsl4Y1yMWv-1Z_oYm2Mi041XEWViFBZd1Zqv2uHawGPbFCrpRc5wsrQ8d1iV5Kk16gms/s1600/Kill+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjF5RBZUFQ3httaod8U3UJjkA39vt_LyFnkiBsmkqetiRZ4ryxWvhokKAR0S1bcRzHQupDpHo6dsl4Y1yMWv-1Z_oYm2Mi041XEWViFBZd1Zqv2uHawGPbFCrpRc5wsrQ8d1iV5Kk16gms/s640/Kill+10.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8xq6edOELdjUKPmGW3-giLlBX5TRzyaShFuOzbNylr7mTjJUo5qwszs7wAK8IgQUqSGO4CVGPZmWaxM4UGj25o9bMOYGVgCxIeZ39VLf71ygFQk-60FbL6wmMbkZUk1bdaVvXzBUVcv8/s1600/Kill+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="358" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8xq6edOELdjUKPmGW3-giLlBX5TRzyaShFuOzbNylr7mTjJUo5qwszs7wAK8IgQUqSGO4CVGPZmWaxM4UGj25o9bMOYGVgCxIeZ39VLf71ygFQk-60FbL6wmMbkZUk1bdaVvXzBUVcv8/s640/Kill+11.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beginning of the end... The lioness's back legs have shredded the zebras stomach...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiziN0qceFOVjbuASBi_iK1ASXa5MRD7ZXXj5ZaaUmoJHWvhoPqAmtLsBinZm-tg1HIuXy4qUo3n9ewMS_n8S9HQ9jHklmk3BWM0OsBJfG2v2X0gZKKL0L4AmyqWB6AE3O2H0k_iTHftuE/s1600/Kill+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiziN0qceFOVjbuASBi_iK1ASXa5MRD7ZXXj5ZaaUmoJHWvhoPqAmtLsBinZm-tg1HIuXy4qUo3n9ewMS_n8S9HQ9jHklmk3BWM0OsBJfG2v2X0gZKKL0L4AmyqWB6AE3O2H0k_iTHftuE/s640/Kill+12.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_U-3Yk7wR_xmAs-Apen7yw9yShOaYX8lGkCxxTtvgUm2CsNo3pRN4jzMevtmBX242UJPNxa3qw9uwVLjFwDGuewqWfiObu7oT-Gh2bGMfQx4fGuOF5-XF5q7fieNkGAUGyHdq9ZHfyYM/s1600/Kill+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_U-3Yk7wR_xmAs-Apen7yw9yShOaYX8lGkCxxTtvgUm2CsNo3pRN4jzMevtmBX242UJPNxa3qw9uwVLjFwDGuewqWfiObu7oT-Gh2bGMfQx4fGuOF5-XF5q7fieNkGAUGyHdq9ZHfyYM/s640/Kill+13.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj6hLMaCdoxnjGncvZcuwEKtmwXRWlSwWew5wbASnVklXVHG-AF5LVG2M89LDqagCdQZ9xn2DSvpsezbJnMonZAnmN_yYfcUC9HCJZ-qvIVIrBo9W0J6xpfQoWhTD4d5mo0JNV3gEvbNs/s1600/Kill+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj6hLMaCdoxnjGncvZcuwEKtmwXRWlSwWew5wbASnVklXVHG-AF5LVG2M89LDqagCdQZ9xn2DSvpsezbJnMonZAnmN_yYfcUC9HCJZ-qvIVIrBo9W0J6xpfQoWhTD4d5mo0JNV3gEvbNs/s640/Kill+14.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOcGw7ahDMJuJCa_u1JYoGi0nq52wObc2jEajxJqSgj32WBCE6EaTiZTAMHPfvf-QdMv2MBeGTxLXGUqVFh0ESfWZUPPXoyu_hpuB8N8x80N0EZ1xid1-OZd0qlfLT5GijBmLNjc2E8A/s1600/Kill+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="364" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbOcGw7ahDMJuJCa_u1JYoGi0nq52wObc2jEajxJqSgj32WBCE6EaTiZTAMHPfvf-QdMv2MBeGTxLXGUqVFh0ESfWZUPPXoyu_hpuB8N8x80N0EZ1xid1-OZd0qlfLT5GijBmLNjc2E8A/s640/Kill+15.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXL_qfEXC8rXGiJkB1o4fA_c-OCe5cQOr4bsyzpMyRSOQ3Q3icIKxow5jpK5tKkf7aXFSgXYiAC0iE6OPX1x1uuBLKygzTFahnBFu9PCUN2VupdOY8RKDxoO7Thoz9Ik4KQGSyTKVXOA/s1600/Kill+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlXL_qfEXC8rXGiJkB1o4fA_c-OCe5cQOr4bsyzpMyRSOQ3Q3icIKxow5jpK5tKkf7aXFSgXYiAC0iE6OPX1x1uuBLKygzTFahnBFu9PCUN2VupdOY8RKDxoO7Thoz9Ik4KQGSyTKVXOA/s640/Kill+16.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1WBr2qx3wU-XYm3gGutrPAhjPrkfuZ6ckGhOAIcF2TP5vyrxKqgdFv93GBLuujh5S6J1Lmz_Ky5BP4NktI0scASut2y5TfVoSrYs8JrtrsTXAzaxmOKLwKiM4T01IXK4a9Y_OaBbUmdk/s1600/Kill+17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1WBr2qx3wU-XYm3gGutrPAhjPrkfuZ6ckGhOAIcF2TP5vyrxKqgdFv93GBLuujh5S6J1Lmz_Ky5BP4NktI0scASut2y5TfVoSrYs8JrtrsTXAzaxmOKLwKiM4T01IXK4a9Y_OaBbUmdk/s640/Kill+17.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">She gets the throat...</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2Y-wNZp3ih5kI3pPMTrQQWStgqej_AbMOzyhiAr97jf-Pw1pnXaRMYwz7UQKabyO8oopfva6r4aqeosHQTTENLUYsUr1lI0IFy1D5MD_160wBY4_g8dujWM8akMvqgzVEC8Gcdt5Zgk/s1600/Kill+18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-2Y-wNZp3ih5kI3pPMTrQQWStgqej_AbMOzyhiAr97jf-Pw1pnXaRMYwz7UQKabyO8oopfva6r4aqeosHQTTENLUYsUr1lI0IFy1D5MD_160wBY4_g8dujWM8akMvqgzVEC8Gcdt5Zgk/s640/Kill+18.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkdbNQiD-GbSMmkpgSyplGYUbijhWlqj0sxFzrWOHaICz-AFLOAjki7IP86soqxIYVB7EN84QpHvQv_vB7XuP4d8QLm8mx-joCVSeJsq2ciXU3qlv8dA3cT_HdKYkIUNzKJMV8qgKii4w/s1600/Kill+19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkdbNQiD-GbSMmkpgSyplGYUbijhWlqj0sxFzrWOHaICz-AFLOAjki7IP86soqxIYVB7EN84QpHvQv_vB7XuP4d8QLm8mx-joCVSeJsq2ciXU3qlv8dA3cT_HdKYkIUNzKJMV8qgKii4w/s640/Kill+19.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horrible to see the other zebra watching on...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0lpfibJYJI5I_viz28ZUw0_8HBdYk9VI1xbZ0zGGCw7YikjLLDytEMZBDGvYqUxu2tHqhaS8RQ6hhbQyyVTOeLnRs6PoaExkoZfEbB-cTJSjNnm6Sv18e2C_lUItBFPi4IxSAps3H0yA/s1600/Kill+20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="382" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0lpfibJYJI5I_viz28ZUw0_8HBdYk9VI1xbZ0zGGCw7YikjLLDytEMZBDGvYqUxu2tHqhaS8RQ6hhbQyyVTOeLnRs6PoaExkoZfEbB-cTJSjNnm6Sv18e2C_lUItBFPi4IxSAps3H0yA/s640/Kill+20.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This zebra was phenomenally strong... Even hurt, with the lioness biting her throat, still she fought...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY2Kh6pfK3UCh_7EpE0-kYr5aYBfnnUlW991gjQnS8BeYmYlIgkQpMpyy_PmJ4CaCPdvMJMob6uaueqU-SK5JOiRXMu2iYrghTj5ZF29A4gNqijlYvIjkV_mPFaiwgMrf63bqwpRnf3ZY/s1600/Kill+21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY2Kh6pfK3UCh_7EpE0-kYr5aYBfnnUlW991gjQnS8BeYmYlIgkQpMpyy_PmJ4CaCPdvMJMob6uaueqU-SK5JOiRXMu2iYrghTj5ZF29A4gNqijlYvIjkV_mPFaiwgMrf63bqwpRnf3ZY/s640/Kill+21.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's over...</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPSH5namJl15m_NnxAviDBLfCRfUGyds2JvP7g0QbuOnEhaNDmHmrXDSEWRRs50rw_IKZLGk2BWSD9gL6qgIrfBatWPfqREWVarLkv7R5b7j8n2ali9kQe749IdFx23PaS1PmgVHgdYYA/s1600/Kill+22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPSH5namJl15m_NnxAviDBLfCRfUGyds2JvP7g0QbuOnEhaNDmHmrXDSEWRRs50rw_IKZLGk2BWSD9gL6qgIrfBatWPfqREWVarLkv7R5b7j8n2ali9kQe749IdFx23PaS1PmgVHgdYYA/s640/Kill+22.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hind quarters dark with the blood of the kill...</td></tr>
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There was very little time from the lioness's first pounce, to her bringing the zebra down, but on the ground the zebra fought for maybe 15 minutes before dying. Salvatory said that the zebra must have been very strong, and that the lioness possibly did not get the correct grip on her throat...<br />
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Phillipa and I were giddy... Salvatory was jumping up and down happily chanting, "I did my job, I did my job!!". You see, Phillipa, from the moment we met Salvatory, talked incessantly about her desire to see a kill. </div>
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Salvatory was pretty quiet about this, commenting only that it is the one thing everyone wishes to see, but that you have to be very, very lucky. He told us afterward that he was really worried we would not see one and this would disappoint him - he genuinely cares so much about the people in his charge. As you can imagine therefore, he was as pleased as we were to see the kill :-)</div>
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After some deep breaths, I turned to Phillipa to see her tearing up. She had begun to empathise with the zebra...</div>
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My wife (fiancée at this stage of course) is a woman of extremes - she can hanker for and cheer on a lion with the vigour of a gangster on the front row of a Vegas prize fight, and two seconds later cry like a lost child for the zebra who gave its life for the pride. I gave her a hug and we then spent a good while conversing in 'wows' and 'did you see that's?'.</div>
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We hung around for some time, as Salvatory watched the skies. He told us to keep our eyes out for vultures. If they spotted the kill, their circling would then bring others... We excitedly peered around, looking for vultures, hoping that they would bring hyenas and jackals...</div>
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Nothing.</div>
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We waited...</div>
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Still, nothing.</div>
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In the end, Salvatory decided that we were better off moving. It seemed doubtful that anything was going to discover the kill anytime soon. There was daylight left after all, and plenty more to see in the crater. </div>
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And Phillipa and I would soon take the most exciting toilet break of our lives, right out in the bush!</div>
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<br />Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-66838624137768261892011-10-04T13:55:00.000-07:002011-10-04T13:55:42.438-07:00The Second Game Drive...21st June 2011<br />
Another early start... We had hit the sack pretty quickly after dinner and after the days excitement sparked out as soon as our heads touched the pillow, but we woke pretty easily, both of us as giddy as school-kids at the thought of a new day on safari.<br />
Our room was a veritable hive of activity as we showered, changed and packed. All of the camera batteries and phones were fully charged and good to go; all we needed now was a little fuel for our bodies and we'd be off.<br />
Leaving the room we walked into a dark, cold dampness that told us the morning mist was back on the ridge. Phillipa and I were yawning like hippos but bouncing on the balls of our feet as we walked. We must have looked like children on Christmas morning, tired, but too excited to slow or sleep!<br />
We hit the restaurant and wolfed down eggs, bacon, tea, toast and jam. Bloated (and still tired) we happily waddled down the stairs, taking our time past the log fire and into reception.<br />
There were a few people already there, waiting for their guide to pull up at the front and get them loaded. There was a proliferation of gadgetry in the room - cameras, lenses, iPads showing the previous days photos, Kindles (well, mine anyway) and even GPS units. Those waiting were excitedly jabbering about the previous day, or about the day ahead. We sat down on the settees by the small open fire and Phillipa closed her eyes while I fiddled with the camera, making sure I had my AV and TV settings ready for quick shots.<br />
Salvatory was the next to pull up outside and so I woke Phillipa and we jumped into the Patrol. Salvatory asked us how we slept (wonderfully!) and we asked the same (good, good!!). He asked if we were ready to see some more game and we went a bit American and blurted out a mix of 'Hoo-Ahh' and 'Hell-Yes'!<br />
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We descended the crater as yesterday, through the cold mist and onto the caldera floor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidG4Id0ltmwxGXaJ0snBjgKDmLLBEu0Sq1BhmfosochCsHeAGsaq70yz9wVcdKW5XUKx5GdM_l5wH4YNoCH2LBSdm7MH8LERFvkaPGR4q-1g22Df9Gbi5i8pOg_NxVgsDwfAHqCiyQBEY/s1600/IMG_1558.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidG4Id0ltmwxGXaJ0snBjgKDmLLBEu0Sq1BhmfosochCsHeAGsaq70yz9wVcdKW5XUKx5GdM_l5wH4YNoCH2LBSdm7MH8LERFvkaPGR4q-1g22Df9Gbi5i8pOg_NxVgsDwfAHqCiyQBEY/s320/IMG_1558.JPG" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCWiPQt9I0XmufTHVuK5IBkuaOsWTAnK_cVArAlPW9o-K0-GAeOmM50ly1epw4e9zRBZGhlBOQlRPnpHmBoRgdK5baFManO09Jofyhov_k3gsrgfG_SzS1wH8RUnld24RO-wts_p48hL0/s1600/IMG_1561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCWiPQt9I0XmufTHVuK5IBkuaOsWTAnK_cVArAlPW9o-K0-GAeOmM50ly1epw4e9zRBZGhlBOQlRPnpHmBoRgdK5baFManO09Jofyhov_k3gsrgfG_SzS1wH8RUnld24RO-wts_p48hL0/s320/IMG_1561.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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We spent the morning viewing secretary birds, jackals, buzzards, a few cokes hartebeest (very like our own deer), a black rhino and even a flock of geese (my trigger finger itched at this...)...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Geese!</td></tr>
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We also spent a little more time with a young elephant male (maybe ten years old). The elephants were quickly becoming our favourite animal and we would happily sit there watching them eat and listening to them rumble. We would see an amazing display of how they communicate with each other, but that would be a few days later in the Serengeti, and we still have a lot to cover here in the crater!<br />
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The sun was burning brightly now, and Phillipa and I could feel the heat even this early in the morning. Phillipa still comments to this day how fussy I was with my hat (Indiana Jones replica Fedora!); taking it off, putting it back on, pulling the brim down, touching the crown - then not being happy and starting again... She said it drove her crazy and I didn't have the heart to say I wasn't being fussy insomuch as the hat band was getting extremely sweaty and I was struggling to sit it comfortably on my head :-)<br />
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We broke for lunch and spent a pleasant hour or so munching on tender beef, cheese sandwiches, yogurt and fruit. Kilimanjaro tea washed it all down and I'm very pleased to say that the black kites kept away from us again.<br />
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Now, the afternoon... I'm going to split this into two posts because it was 'lion-tastic' and I want to do it justice. After lunch Salvatory decided, after chatting with other guides (if we came across another jeep the guides would give all the occupants a hearty 'jambo!', and then have a good chat with each other, comparing game already seen and what others had told them) and listening to his CB radio, to journey over to the other side of the crater.<br />
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The sun was blazing, but we moved at a slightly better pace and so some breeze came in through the roof, though we had to keep the side windows closed due to the deep red dust. The landscape was so beautiful, and the game so abundant that Phillipa and I spoke not a word to each other; each of us gazing out our own window, our heads occasionally darting around as we caught a glimpse of those animals we had already come to love.<br />
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Spotting some warthogs (which Phillipa adored because Angela did when she was in South Africa - bloody twins!) Salvatory slowed so that we could watch them for a time. Whenever warthogs run or trot, their tails flash straight up in the air. This is so the young are still able to follow their parents when they run in tall grass - they can still see the dark bobble of hair at the end of the tail showing up high above the grass. They reminded me of the tour guides with the lollipop boards at the Vatican :-)<br />
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We then had a visit from a fairly indifferent hyena and a female ostrich:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female ostrich</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Awesome neck</td></tr>
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We drove down a long stretch of dirt road and saw three other safari vehicles parked up.<br />
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Salvatory cruised in slowly and cut the engine. A brief crackle of Swahili on the radio told Salvatory that there was a pride of lions here, and a number of wildebeest coming towards them. We excitedly stood, Phillipa crossing to my side of the Patrol, shrugging off her shoes and hopping on the seat behind my own. We struggled to spot the lions. Before us the red of the road gave way to the yellow of the dry grasses. Beyond that, a deep defile, the other side of which rose much higher. And then we saw her. She was sat, head up, alert, but our eyes had missed her at first as she blended in so well with the background. It was only as the lioness moved that our feeble eyes caught her.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hard to see huh?</td></tr>
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She slunk through the grasses, towards a large tree. As we were following her so intently, it was only when she reached the tree that we saw the other members of the pride. More females, and a couple of cubs...<br />
They sat in the shade of the tree, tongues lolling. We could see the wildebeest approaching from the other side of the defile, and were told that there would be some water in there. We hoped for a clash between the wildebeest and the lionesses, but it was not to be. The angle the wildebeest approached at kept them at a decent distance from the lions; added to this, the very steep profile of the defile on the opposite side negated the possibility of a rush attack. Our hearts were still racing, but the wildebeest passed safely by.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can't see it, but there is a deep defile between the tree and the wildebeest</td></tr>
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The lions good naturedly allowed photos for a time, before one of the cubs hopped to his feet and sauntered off. The lionesses watched him for a time, before standing, stretching and following. 'I Just Can't Wait To Be King' was playing in my head at this point and I may have been guilty of humming it too judging by Phillipa's expression...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I thought these photos were better... Sorry!</td></tr>
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The other vehicles headed off, and so did we, but in the other direction. I loved it when this happened. Salvatory consistently took us where no-one else went, and we saw amazing sights as a result. It was like he had a sixth sense about the the game. Thinking about it more, I think it was more down to his passion for his work. I have never met anyone so passionate about what they do, to the point that his spare time is spent learning more about the animals - in some cases by testing out theories first hand... Luckily they have all panned out so far and so this great man is still with us!<br />
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We caught up with the one other vehicle that had gone the same way as we had, and it was a little stuck crossing a small brook. The driver was gassing it up and and spinning the wheels... Salvatory and I both tutted.<br />
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We were thinking of a way to assist when all of a sudden the jeep got traction and shot up the far side. Salvatory eased us forward, let the Patrol get some momentum on the down slope and then gently accelerated up the other side. Like a boss!<br />
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After the road snaked right then left we saw perhaps six vehicles parked up. Camera lenses the size of bazookas protruded from every available orifice of every jeep. Our spidey senses told us something was about to happen!<br />
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What was about to happen was a lion kill. And Salvatory had put us in the exact perfect position to see the whole thing...<br />
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The next post will be all about the kill, start to finish. If you are squeamish I warn you now that there will be graphic photographs...<br />
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<br />Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-65985959754274943872011-09-21T13:35:00.000-07:002011-09-22T04:45:19.960-07:00The first game drive... An angry elephant and a wonderful lodge<br />
June 20th 2011 : 5.30PM<br />
Salvatory explained that we would now have to head back to the lodge. The crater 'closes' at six o'clock, and we had to reach the ranger gate before this time. Though of course, as the best guide in the Africa, Salvatory would always stop and let us grab another few million pixels of memories:<br />
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The road leaving the crater is a fairly steep switchback and provides breathtaking views over the caldera floor. This was another situation where a lack of camera equipment caused a problem. With the internal prop flights only able to take 15kg per person we had really stripped down our cases - I had done this even to the point of not packing the 50mm lens, which would have been much better for the landscape shots...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaEsuJAkhuZJiIYWBDwLvzpePSu8wYHe-JQJcFM-jTNRaEkjEOVxmdChz6plZtdoaXJyKatLnEy61PoOvBCm_tPNg33lhd4UQnAC6IW1kSOrbrfSETawOm_CZ8Hw6L0ANwAYVYZazOgOM/s1600/IMG_1478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaEsuJAkhuZJiIYWBDwLvzpePSu8wYHe-JQJcFM-jTNRaEkjEOVxmdChz6plZtdoaXJyKatLnEy61PoOvBCm_tPNg33lhd4UQnAC6IW1kSOrbrfSETawOm_CZ8Hw6L0ANwAYVYZazOgOM/s320/IMG_1478.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Part of the switchback</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH7IkCiF5DgHR3saaSriTQSSCKlwQRCssiwcfYXxAWzs0QNXnSfSgMD2hrrndK0vDhjhFtxpCnI8ry5HAhtoqC_gk74k7q2Ba6WK57GA1zcfcCZLTi2E3t0UBSuO4HZ5Huo3G9XPeQYkY/s1600/IMG_1483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjH7IkCiF5DgHR3saaSriTQSSCKlwQRCssiwcfYXxAWzs0QNXnSfSgMD2hrrndK0vDhjhFtxpCnI8ry5HAhtoqC_gk74k7q2Ba6WK57GA1zcfcCZLTi2E3t0UBSuO4HZ5Huo3G9XPeQYkY/s320/IMG_1483.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
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We hit the gate around five minutes before 6pm and Salvatory gunned the Patrol through the final rise and onto the road that ran the rim. The colour of Africa was changing; the green of the grasses and trees that we had seen earlier that morning was now losing out to the red colours of the coming sunset and the rust coloured road dust that vehicles had kicked up in a fine spray over the course of the day.<br />
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Phillipa and I settled back into our seats, too tired and too overwhelmed to yet talk about the day. We chugged the rest of our cans and popped the empties into the bin next to the fridge at the back of the Patrol.<br />
Salvatory stopped the jeep, climbed into the back and asked me to help him pull down the roof and secure it fast. The roof stood tall on 4 folding arms, held up by two hydraulic struts. Salvatory grabbed the front handles and I the back, and together we swung our weight forward to bend the arms and bring the roof down. Four large rubber pulls at each corner slotted into grooves and held it tightly shut; until tomorrow :-)<br />
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Salvatory hopped over the drivers seat, hit the gear and hit the gas. We had been used to a sedate ride all around the crater floor, and the extra burst of speed woke us up a little. We passed a fairly derelict looking building on our right which we were told was the local police barracks, and then a wide brown track which was the Ngorongoro airstrip.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTNJZXzmRHojFdI55aD-ThZ2xiiguLPGtL40ceNA4DzkbI1G95fb1IukGTckyukKSWiipfsVLr4KY_Uv-4pyw-G5-qDshbeCW2mxJy4jItU2Dhsli54ONburzbqdq826fACgQPPxAcmm4/s1600/IMG_1545.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTNJZXzmRHojFdI55aD-ThZ2xiiguLPGtL40ceNA4DzkbI1G95fb1IukGTckyukKSWiipfsVLr4KY_Uv-4pyw-G5-qDshbeCW2mxJy4jItU2Dhsli54ONburzbqdq826fACgQPPxAcmm4/s320/IMG_1545.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not quite Gatwick...</td></tr>
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We were peering across at this (Phillipa with interest, me with bum-puckering trepidation) when on came the anchors and the Patrol juddered to a halt. As he was braking Salvatory shut off the engine too.<br />
The surprise of all this shot our heads round to the front and what then filled our view was an old bull elephant. We had disturbed his meal and he was peering back at us; Salvatory silently unfixed the rubber stops holding the small sunroof above his head - this folded forward and locked, and Phillipa and I stood up very slowly, poking our heads up through the gap and leaning on the driver and passenger seats.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDx691R7FtIwQAD2fEUptghVb63tsLLwNaKBx6J8Oo79WIrGe1QjB3Nbm1iBXEnj29MKo8v6FX_FDOIy7F1tsNUrpJMh6Z4yv-38Ss3cAxvhyLFEd0KQKn_miTIbuxxwTJAmd9cLcoNk/s1600/IMG_1494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggDx691R7FtIwQAD2fEUptghVb63tsLLwNaKBx6J8Oo79WIrGe1QjB3Nbm1iBXEnj29MKo8v6FX_FDOIy7F1tsNUrpJMh6Z4yv-38Ss3cAxvhyLFEd0KQKn_miTIbuxxwTJAmd9cLcoNk/s400/IMG_1494.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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There are not many times I will use the word 'exhilarated' and mean it; this however was definitely one such occasion... It was so close we could see the texture of his skin and hear the workings of the muscles in his trunk and jaw.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35M0QW21DXDGIqWcsHb7ZJgaB9BSsjFQTfA5IOaQlFgtU7YsnC7FVw88dMJv5UMJ7GIT-oUwf2kGrtAg-b4HJpKRrZa5K9-eh_HH2L0zgyuCNpxkRmPKoY1cML5_3tmNQX6glDg2nIuA/s1600/IMG_1523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35M0QW21DXDGIqWcsHb7ZJgaB9BSsjFQTfA5IOaQlFgtU7YsnC7FVw88dMJv5UMJ7GIT-oUwf2kGrtAg-b4HJpKRrZa5K9-eh_HH2L0zgyuCNpxkRmPKoY1cML5_3tmNQX6glDg2nIuA/s640/IMG_1523.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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We stood, open mouthed, not making a sound, but he knew we were there. Every now and again he would turn and peer at us. Eventually, he began to move and it was incredibly fortuitous that his route was taking him across the road in front of us. He walked with a remarkable grace considering his size, making barely a noise as he moved through the dry grasses.<br />
It was then I wished I was a better photographer. The elephant passed in front of the setting sun, bestowing upon us a view so beautiful it is really hard to find the right words to describe it...<br />
The pictures certainly don't do it justice and I'm sure it didn't help that I kept fiddling and clicking different options, trying in vain to find some way to capture the moment. So here are a few out of focus and badly exposed snaps:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OS2UXzb1oJeHU4t2bMT5-Lj0Z091dLmG6VkIDXu8uq8rvr_frGh-ODbth-WiZYd8h3kD8GhI_4AOiIIaS2x97rHgC0-BXzwkRTrYUiAgufGGUdEgOELNLxo51jvWXHQfL9hawr8uz-4/s1600/IMG_1503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3OS2UXzb1oJeHU4t2bMT5-Lj0Z091dLmG6VkIDXu8uq8rvr_frGh-ODbth-WiZYd8h3kD8GhI_4AOiIIaS2x97rHgC0-BXzwkRTrYUiAgufGGUdEgOELNLxo51jvWXHQfL9hawr8uz-4/s320/IMG_1503.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnKJHFuBhtyKJ5pTVUB_4EgQTMpEwfEpWUY1fJteWiBxDcvo27seENMHOv1O5ZTY2rVJhJ-_92LVQ098FzBC7q2TSJ1M_-JykZyuuLi6ynPCztxXiZqWDh3qeHzazZA9YiwYMZQqrvjso/s1600/IMG_1507.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnKJHFuBhtyKJ5pTVUB_4EgQTMpEwfEpWUY1fJteWiBxDcvo27seENMHOv1O5ZTY2rVJhJ-_92LVQ098FzBC7q2TSJ1M_-JykZyuuLi6ynPCztxXiZqWDh3qeHzazZA9YiwYMZQqrvjso/s320/IMG_1507.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX67BZymD54BfDiUnHs8BWgNTATtlGHRorR6cHWhSRMu3MZGkwwMlnuiU9NEGQm6jknkScB6WfZ3mVwBDDIGKwyC95t2P3bjui4QbqXcfcu1wb9fULIHX-O7sCvOO9zkS7jmXT8cohOZM/s1600/IMG_1519.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX67BZymD54BfDiUnHs8BWgNTATtlGHRorR6cHWhSRMu3MZGkwwMlnuiU9NEGQm6jknkScB6WfZ3mVwBDDIGKwyC95t2P3bjui4QbqXcfcu1wb9fULIHX-O7sCvOO9zkS7jmXT8cohOZM/s320/IMG_1519.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2fBWYOauZSLFKYPJ8V0GWNyP7fZUd7W-Y_5IflOkcmMSVugj3aIMG5ZafL8SaHMlHe7b2eCkp5VdwzYoVhS8o89vzoRiCQjvop5meuQagzQWSR8GpYLquM8K78j-oHJMzYs19GCuL6zI/s1600/IMG_1525.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2fBWYOauZSLFKYPJ8V0GWNyP7fZUd7W-Y_5IflOkcmMSVugj3aIMG5ZafL8SaHMlHe7b2eCkp5VdwzYoVhS8o89vzoRiCQjvop5meuQagzQWSR8GpYLquM8K78j-oHJMzYs19GCuL6zI/s320/IMG_1525.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTJRJ_sZoGNLZBUPiZruAJq5UsVw2SmamWUgB1T9piRUSxFRP4NtMKXXw7-Y0UuRGz3p-RqR_YegONYAxlQUrug-vwkrCR3mOU5RgSJgG6o3vzevuB3varAWHT9jDN5WUI3ldjuYIJqM/s1600/IMG_1528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicTJRJ_sZoGNLZBUPiZruAJq5UsVw2SmamWUgB1T9piRUSxFRP4NtMKXXw7-Y0UuRGz3p-RqR_YegONYAxlQUrug-vwkrCR3mOU5RgSJgG6o3vzevuB3varAWHT9jDN5WUI3ldjuYIJqM/s640/IMG_1528.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I know this isn't a great photo, but I really like it so you're stuck with it extra large</td></tr>
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He began to cross the road, and Salvatory started the Patrol and nudged us closer. We could see the elephant eyeing us up without moving his head. His outstretched leg slowly pulled back, and he became motionless.<br />
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We barely breathed...<br />
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Then he turned to face us. A stand-off!<br />
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Phillipa and I were both statue still, frozen in awe at the sight - what appeared at first as a magnificent old friendly elephant had become something else as he faced us - something really big and dangerous that had taken exception to our gawking.<br />
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Then he did something that shocked me down into my seat. He gave a rumble, not quite a trumpet, and flapped his ears at us. Now, this might not sound like anything at all, but those ears are bloody big and it made a hell of noise. Dust flew as his ears slapped outwards from his neck, and combined with the snort from his trunk it sounded like a thunderclap.<br />
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Apparently this is a warning - it's a 'back-off buddy' move. I did exactly as I was told and sat my ass down. Salvatory grabbed my arm and exhorted me to 'get up, take photos!!'.<br />
So I stood back up, noticing that Phillipa hadn't moved (annoying - but then she has had an Indian elephant step on her chest on her travels...)<br />
With a sheepish smile at Phillipa, up came the camera for some more photos and some video as he decided that we were no threat and that he could happily cross the road...<br />
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As the elephant sauntered off, we sat back down and Salvatory continued the drive back to lodge. This meeting had really perked us up and got us talking. Well, perhaps talking is too grand a word for the 'ooh's' and the 'oh my god's' and the 'did you see's' that we peppered each other with for the next few minutes.<br />
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The sun was setting as we reached the top of the ridge, and we were noticing that it dropped rapidly in comparison to back home. We had left at around 6am that morning, and were returning after 6pm... Most people we met would do much shorter drives (which we could have asked for) but Salvatory's first thought is to his clients, and we wanted to see as much as possible - anyway, we had a honeymoon in Zanzibar coming up; we'd relax there!<br />
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We were dropped off at the lodge and Salvatory headed over to the guides area.<br />
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We had read about this, the guides have separate areas and can't join you for dinner etc. Salvatory would join us for a drink on a few nights, and for lunch and dinner at our wedding (we were adamant about this), but he did seem keen to also meet with his friends at the guides area so it's not quite as we had read. By the time we got to Zanzibar for our honeymoon we thought so much of Salvatory that it took us days to get used to not being with him. Phillipa and I still talk about him - a nicer man you will not meet!<br />
We arranged to meet for a drink after dinner, and Phillipa and I headed into reception. We were stopped here and again given fresh warm towels to wipe our faces and hands, and an extremely fresh and thirst quenching fruit drink. We sipped these as we headed down the large wooden staircase to the veranda that overlooked the whole crater.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Serena Lodge - each room looking right over the crater</td></tr>
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Of course, by this time we just wanted Tusker beer, food and a shower. And we wanted it all in that order too.<br />
With this in mind, we turned left and straight into the main restaurant and bar area. We grabbed two bottles of Tusker from the bar and carried them straight through, picking up the raised walkway outside all the way to our room and swigging the African nectar as we walked.<br />
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The rooms here were superb. Have a look at <a href="http://www.serenahotels.com/serenangorongoro/default-en.html">http://www.serenahotels.com/serenangorongoro/default-en.html</a> for a full idea of this awesome place. The bathroom was on our right as we entered, just past an almost-walk in wardrobe. The bedroom was straight on and had a huge, comfy bed, a writing desk and huge sliding glass doors that looked out over the crater. We weren't about to take too long in the room though, a quick shower, a quick 'no' from Phillipa when I asked for a fumble (worth a try) and then we were heading back to the restaurant. We walked past the bar towards the open fire that resides at the bottom of the spiral staircase leading to the upper floor and the restaurant.<br />
We didn't have a single bad meal during our whole time in Africa, so if you are going and are worried, don't be. These lodges are top class, and so is the food and service.<br />
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Each night at this lodge there is a performance or show downstairs and unfortunately our timing was off this night. Just as we were tucking in to a fantastic curry we could hear the Maasai performers downstairs; we made a mental note to hold off dinner until after this performance the next night.<br />
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The food and beer was working its magic and our eyes were closing as we finished dessert. We walked back downstairs on leaden legs and eschewed a nightcap at the bar in favour of sleep. After all, we had to get up early again - unbeknownst to us at this point of course, we had the full action of a lion kill to see the next afternoon...<br />
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<br />Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-60098887377329645012011-09-20T02:46:00.000-07:002011-09-20T02:46:27.508-07:00Subscribing... A brief interludeRemember, to get notified of updates easily pop your email into the Follow by Email box on the right hand side - you'll then get an email to tell you when new post has been published (you won't get any other emails or rubbish through! - it's purely a Blogger notification tool).<br />
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Next up... An angry elephant... :-)Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-21101252906533188622011-09-18T13:11:00.000-07:002011-09-19T13:34:47.613-07:00The first game drive... Buffalo, and a little bit of history...June 20th 2011<br />
The sun was at it's zenith and the heat hit us hard. The chilly air and mist on the crater ridge was now a distant memory. Beneath the azure sky we dropped layers and yet still sweated. The suncream was pulled from my trusty National Geographic bag (which made some people think I was actually affiliated with them; I, rather shamefully, did nothing to dissuade them from this...) and applied liberally.<br />
The hat band in my Indiana Jones replica fedora (yes, really) was getting uncomfortable, but even though the Patrol roof 'popped' and did provide shade, we were up and peering out of it so much that covering the bonce was a must. Phillipa has brought with her some floppy monstrosity that Angela (her twin sister) had worn in South Africa. It had nothing at all to do with Indiana Jones and so my interest ended there :-)<br />
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We were both taking on water constantly, but Salvatory hardly touched a drop. He would go most days on a single small bottle. He did say he would drink more when we hit the Serengeti proper however, as it would be much warmer than in the crater. Phillipa and I shared an apprehensive glance...<br />
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We had not travelled far before seeing our first buffalo. Now, I don't know about you, but these never rated highly on my 'must see' list. 'Funny horns, don't do much' was my initial summation, but when we got up close I had to change my mind. They <i>do </i>have funny horns and they <i>don't </i>do much, but their size is staggering... It's quite captivating being so close to such a huge animal, and the fact that they don't shift around much made it easier to get some good snaps:<br />
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While I snapped away like a horny paparazzi outside Scarlett Johansson's bathroom window, Salvatory explained a little about Tanzania's history.<br />
Tanzania was originally a German colony (remember 'Yellow Fever Forest'?), until World War 2. After the war the German colonies were divided up between the allies and England took over Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda. Zanzibar was passed to the Sultanate of Oman and this perhaps explains why the Muslim faith is much greater in Zanzibar than on the Tanzanian mainland.<br />
The fact that Tanzania became a English colony also explained something the Phillipa and I had not even noticed yet - they drive on the left, in right hand drive cars... The plug sockets are also three pin, 240v, and so all our chargers fit straight in - and thank god for that; with our 15kg baggage limit we had no room at all for anything else!<br />
Salvatory explained that with the English in charge there was a burgeoning NHS, good schools and good prospects (Tanzania remains to this day the jewel of Africa in regard to stability and opportunity) - once England left however, and the country was given back to Tanzania the organisation began to fall apart (I am quoting Salvatory here). He really missed English rule and felt it was to their detriment to have lost it. An interesting point to give to all those people who think colonisation was <i>all </i>bad...<br />
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Anyway.. :-)<br />
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We moved on from the buffalo and Salvatory's eagle eyes caught another black rhino. Honestly, the distances this guy could spot game was amazing - he would comment on details I could only see with the binoculars...<br />
This rhino was definitely not our friend from earlier. We were too far away from the initial spot point, and as a further giveaway, this one had her baby with her!<br />
Cubs, children - no matter what the species or what they are called, no matter what they are capable of, no matter how dangerous when grown - all young frolic and play and run around the legs of their parents, and the baby rhino was no different. It would run around the mother and then off a short distance away, before stopping and looking back, checking Mum was still close. If she was too far away, the baby would run back and then begin again. It was fantastic to watch, and just a shame that we were again watching through the binos (there are only 6 black rhinos in the crater, they are that rare, and so I guess we cannot complain that they kept their distance - who could blame them? After all, their only real predator has been man).<br />
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After all the above, I'm afraid I have no photos. The distance was just too great... Rest assured though, it was wonderful to watch :-)<br />
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We spent the rest of the afternoon driving slowly back to the lodge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimFUS3GFC2kI894RTgxotRLBVFoiu6fkusOom0wxdrkc3nmKB_DVrQUKnTYCc6vyzjr7EzO8Wxf54v84ypXKW68oDGsEoJav88yGpNlcCuINj_gldQeagSRPW56OcBe0NiZF9v-X0BAeM/s1600/IMG_1431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimFUS3GFC2kI894RTgxotRLBVFoiu6fkusOom0wxdrkc3nmKB_DVrQUKnTYCc6vyzjr7EzO8Wxf54v84ypXKW68oDGsEoJav88yGpNlcCuINj_gldQeagSRPW56OcBe0NiZF9v-X0BAeM/s320/IMG_1431.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCemYprWz12cXWr9YDj4YSDqfGkR7KbYg57rgvz28OP8cjHFKapDhBIR0atOJoFM40-WNZyjUYu9XUaQ_MU7VzsUkxyDDhgtP9HPFlyEvugL5G_VzGNaRSuxnSTT9dNZX27oXDJjPBqac/s1600/IMG_1443.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCemYprWz12cXWr9YDj4YSDqfGkR7KbYg57rgvz28OP8cjHFKapDhBIR0atOJoFM40-WNZyjUYu9XUaQ_MU7VzsUkxyDDhgtP9HPFlyEvugL5G_VzGNaRSuxnSTT9dNZX27oXDJjPBqac/s320/IMG_1443.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Secretary Bird - called thus due to pencil-like feathers on the back of the head, and because the Arabic for 'hunter' sounds like secretary (and the Arabs named the bird!)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Ihx2LHhxj8CFPBmozTzZJ7Q6Bw33iNd2SUS9QuXZd3xCLr6Zp1Lp67xUwKz10lMHDnW3qOh4UbZ3Lw9eA8x1vS8BA_QHulbuHCHWVr0aGkx-rQ2HedwpZe2eypMNuJ_8jEv9bznSZMo/s1600/IMG_1448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0Ihx2LHhxj8CFPBmozTzZJ7Q6Bw33iNd2SUS9QuXZd3xCLr6Zp1Lp67xUwKz10lMHDnW3qOh4UbZ3Lw9eA8x1vS8BA_QHulbuHCHWVr0aGkx-rQ2HedwpZe2eypMNuJ_8jEv9bznSZMo/s320/IMG_1448.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black back jackals</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJuJxZTKiZ9KCzS-JDI0OGQonsXk5O9M3NywZrdTyh_XifEaKivX4WTF0bQ8nUiC9vEgPpZT8Qb2mx9NkM6J572R8tpStmNF48mErNNoqpGY2rzhnf33eZPgWh-ehZ-H59shnfMyfjf_o/s1600/IMG_1456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJuJxZTKiZ9KCzS-JDI0OGQonsXk5O9M3NywZrdTyh_XifEaKivX4WTF0bQ8nUiC9vEgPpZT8Qb2mx9NkM6J572R8tpStmNF48mErNNoqpGY2rzhnf33eZPgWh-ehZ-H59shnfMyfjf_o/s320/IMG_1456.JPG" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our lodge is hidden in these clouds</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUc7Psz-TTN7U-yrQbK01rEzWJGJkZFhyphenhyphen__1oYYo2Y1P0uFCeY9HkG3UMJFo4Ac4liXl2AZF6eYayWQY7-WM3MYK7AIqA9vM2wH8OYDsHLvVxKD0ejhULaFEHkf4A62tQ7sge-x50dS0/s1600/IMG_1467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQUc7Psz-TTN7U-yrQbK01rEzWJGJkZFhyphenhyphen__1oYYo2Y1P0uFCeY9HkG3UMJFo4Ac4liXl2AZF6eYayWQY7-WM3MYK7AIqA9vM2wH8OYDsHLvVxKD0ejhULaFEHkf4A62tQ7sge-x50dS0/s320/IMG_1467.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zebra babies have brown stripes - they get darker with age until perfectly black</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY400lfRQjLu9SVAEkD59ThFs8Yh5W8FrXDp1NqAeP-P51YnWtoDx1zryS9cyNd9xMfVs43X10GFZ8eOidx_R9JsgYatMhYvBHhyphenhyphenCZVoPVwKrGeSvhsutIj9Mno7jGFBfq3XQhG68j81g/s1600/IMG_1470.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY400lfRQjLu9SVAEkD59ThFs8Yh5W8FrXDp1NqAeP-P51YnWtoDx1zryS9cyNd9xMfVs43X10GFZ8eOidx_R9JsgYatMhYvBHhyphenhyphenCZVoPVwKrGeSvhsutIj9Mno7jGFBfq3XQhG68j81g/s320/IMG_1470.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNeXqvlFFj0jliD1jgTwvC34X3q5C6ygLiRw6qDrwuu4W0vNDloWIgUMdHRo9z5wp-K1TF1X17iPbFCypVFZihnNIYzOKpWyObHIx5Q4_bHnXznGQsbRikYr1dHvS8nnXSePuoGZ-2cGU/s1600/IMG_1472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNeXqvlFFj0jliD1jgTwvC34X3q5C6ygLiRw6qDrwuu4W0vNDloWIgUMdHRo9z5wp-K1TF1X17iPbFCypVFZihnNIYzOKpWyObHIx5Q4_bHnXznGQsbRikYr1dHvS8nnXSePuoGZ-2cGU/s320/IMG_1472.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmVKDDcm-jWUeViWC4NNClvTwcwTfEX7u9ztkvAMoeP-hGTZwMNOKBKnnMk5TiucXV4eerHUmfAaV4wwmq0wud5vWD43rukbS_HdylUkIL4L3DA4o1Ghm0Y0MC90QvtnhMMjDNDslwyBQ/s1600/IMG_1486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmVKDDcm-jWUeViWC4NNClvTwcwTfEX7u9ztkvAMoeP-hGTZwMNOKBKnnMk5TiucXV4eerHUmfAaV4wwmq0wud5vWD43rukbS_HdylUkIL4L3DA4o1Ghm0Y0MC90QvtnhMMjDNDslwyBQ/s640/IMG_1486.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic Africa shot!</td></tr>
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And then, driving across the crater to the lodge, we saw yet another black rhino - I mention this only as I was able to get some pics of this one :-)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCKKLRH4TG6Zk7SqYV33EnCiD9Inw6uBX3J0oFuMXJwSIHkXrZ3l8J4jUXAjz7PBtzeAtwfy7Y38tb1P_D7rNsFuzE1F-zmWk0u_Lc7b6oaebo5q7cnk71cvX_hfEAoXC-G9cWxBDeWk/s1600/Black+Rhino+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="334" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYCKKLRH4TG6Zk7SqYV33EnCiD9Inw6uBX3J0oFuMXJwSIHkXrZ3l8J4jUXAjz7PBtzeAtwfy7Y38tb1P_D7rNsFuzE1F-zmWk0u_Lc7b6oaebo5q7cnk71cvX_hfEAoXC-G9cWxBDeWk/s640/Black+Rhino+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This guy was sleeping, but popped his head up for a sniff from time to time</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_niTbTlwWPICQb2AN6xm1zipyJ0l-Fjmj8xnawOwGBQJoCJKiS7bgYQ5snauJ-q-Rh_U5VAniqgxrFnEM5JRtZl6GU9jj8bBXqylmS8cXBID8ssuXXLBTvOu2WwbbXVJ63ombgqYmho/s1600/Black+Rhino+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm_niTbTlwWPICQb2AN6xm1zipyJ0l-Fjmj8xnawOwGBQJoCJKiS7bgYQ5snauJ-q-Rh_U5VAniqgxrFnEM5JRtZl6GU9jj8bBXqylmS8cXBID8ssuXXLBTvOu2WwbbXVJ63ombgqYmho/s320/Black+Rhino+3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And then we headed up the crater ridge to our temporary home. The day was not over however. We were about to see an elephant closer than we could have ever imagined - and he was <i>not </i>happy...<br />
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<br />Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-10184875579720081942011-09-15T13:28:00.000-07:002011-09-19T13:34:35.801-07:00The first game drive... Black RhinoJune 20th 2011<br />
I apologise in advance for this photo... (remember if you click the photos you'll get them in full size)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6bI6cHOq7_YK0Hks5C2bTeGVKeNN6IpENn9fhACjwQcgeriD8CxK5Ag5F6FU3TUCXjhPnNi58TDWfo1-DvS-xlkBfXxOf9tV6WEJGHJ7KYYZG53d_S2H0c4cuEuQk6TgkxB9eX9rPENU/s1600/Rhino.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="210" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6bI6cHOq7_YK0Hks5C2bTeGVKeNN6IpENn9fhACjwQcgeriD8CxK5Ag5F6FU3TUCXjhPnNi58TDWfo1-DvS-xlkBfXxOf9tV6WEJGHJ7KYYZG53d_S2H0c4cuEuQk6TgkxB9eX9rPENU/s400/Rhino.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The distance was just too great for the lens I had...</div>
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Through the bino's though we took in a lot of detail and had a great view. The rhino was such a throwback, a proper dinosaur. It swaggered through the grasses without a care in the world, which realistically was true. Not a fat lot messes with these boys. We would later get a glimpse of the largest male lion in the crater, and whilst the black rhino didn't appear troubled, he did move away from the lion. Salvatory told us that even a rhino wouldn't mess with a fully grown male lion... Whilst the rhino was remarkable, comments like this just fuelled my desire to see a large male lion up close, but more of this later.</div>
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We were told that a rhino horn is flexible, floppy almost, when the rhino is relaxed. It only becomes rigid when excited (yes, I laughed). Perhaps angry or agitated would be a better word. When agitated, and the horn becomes rigid, it is tough enough to pass through the side of a jeep like a hot knife through butter...</div>
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The rhino was not coming any closer and so we moved onward. It would remain the most elusive of the big game we would be hunting, but we would get a little closer before the end. We had not travelled far before Phillipa spotted and pointed out a clan of hyenas. We had seen a lot of them around already, but this was different. Perhaps 6 or 7 adults were all stood watching a shallow defile just out of sight. Several young were there also. </div>
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Aside from size, you can tell the age of a hyena by the spacing of their spots - the young appear very dark as the spots are closely grouped, the adults are lighter in colour as the dark spots have spaced out over their body as they have grown.</div>
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We were here for a long time as it was clear that a kill was in the dip, and it could only be a very large male lion to keep away this many hyenas. This was also when our black rhino sauntered over to check out the commotion - when he beat a slow retreat Salvatory confirmed it must be 'the' male lion.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKE-e4SbrZwbmII9z9sARHibpljzZsa3oa3ZyS3iXyfw8y7xPsWxDK6yrDVXYjVbMrNjvgsT3F_VDYXXY83mHTI06PerdNx930SCwIJL-7ylwxhV-WOtkVNQQFcVJSSiSHwdmPGT1J510/s1600/Lion+and+Hyena.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKE-e4SbrZwbmII9z9sARHibpljzZsa3oa3ZyS3iXyfw8y7xPsWxDK6yrDVXYjVbMrNjvgsT3F_VDYXXY83mHTI06PerdNx930SCwIJL-7ylwxhV-WOtkVNQQFcVJSSiSHwdmPGT1J510/s320/Lion+and+Hyena.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Despite waiting for a long time, this was all we saw - the lion poked up his head (circled in blue, hyenas nearby in front) before settling down to nap after his feed... Male lions can sleep anything up to 20 hours a day and the chances of anything making this guy move, considering a black rhino left him alone, were slim to none. Slightly disappointed, we moved on...</div>
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There was of course no need to be disappointed. We were slap bang in the 8th wonder of the world with the best guide in Africa. On the way to our next lion spot, we passed a few crowned cranes:</div>
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But to be honest I'm not really into the whole bird thing, unless we're talking pheasants and I've got my shotgun with me. So, more lions!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tart</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu5w3oOabKvF0-Y_goB-v9QifSuRbXbqiEU70j_EmWpqq9pgQQQFMEhWtKsg1yDtWYkIlI7_6jc00_Hcim8kKsCYLgPNEuYjEemA0FIHkhAyI4xdRsYbsibwFVNuJOYGDdfosFhXlkkL8/s1600/IMG_1321.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhu5w3oOabKvF0-Y_goB-v9QifSuRbXbqiEU70j_EmWpqq9pgQQQFMEhWtKsg1yDtWYkIlI7_6jc00_Hcim8kKsCYLgPNEuYjEemA0FIHkhAyI4xdRsYbsibwFVNuJOYGDdfosFhXlkkL8/s320/IMG_1321.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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These two lions, the young male with the short mane, the young female with her legs open :-), were napping about a meter from the edge of the dirt road. Lions have no predators at all in the crater - the Maasai are not allowed to hunt in the crater, and only they will cause a lion concern as they actively hunt them.</div>
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These two lions had not long hooked up by all accounts. Lions will mate for seven straight days once paired and each encounter will get progressively longer each time after the first coupling, which is around 5 mins (not sure I made even that my first time!). This massive and constant mating period pretty much guarantees pregnancy.</div>
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It also, judging by these two, knackers the hell out of them. </div>
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It is very hard for a male to get a mate, and the only thing that woke this male was his female shifting around - he had to keep an eye out and make sure she didn't leave. Other jeeps pulled up to take photos and the lions did not stir. When she rolled on her back however, his head shot round to check she wasn't getting up.</div>
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I was chuffed to bits here. To be so close, just a few meters away from a lion was exactly what I had hoped for when Phillipa bullied me into going to Africa to get married on safari. </div>
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This just about took us up to lunch. I could tell this as Phillipas stomach sounded like an angry animal and she kept mouthing the words, "I'm starving' at me... Luckily, Salvatory thought the same and we headed off to the lake to dine with the hippos...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbhSuoe4eqU_qC76QEjgFMo96_o7BlqXV2MbPKEkDKHJgXsAgJ15iKTbJu-qwRRCLARj2LGfh7KU9UHfzWUypJgdHzQ2dZefdvn73fiBDRsf-W62G4TvY93b_RXrCpgTHTE07Q8keAcM8/s1600/IMG_1345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbhSuoe4eqU_qC76QEjgFMo96_o7BlqXV2MbPKEkDKHJgXsAgJ15iKTbJu-qwRRCLARj2LGfh7KU9UHfzWUypJgdHzQ2dZefdvn73fiBDRsf-W62G4TvY93b_RXrCpgTHTE07Q8keAcM8/s640/IMG_1345.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The small lake is the only area of the park where you can safely leave the vehicle for any length of time (other than the toilet stop by the forest). Even though Hippos were in the lake we were completely safe. Whilst they are very dangerous animals, the danger comes from people inadvertently crossing their route to water, or their route home - Hippos see this as a threat and charge. You can be a long way away, but cross their route and they will attack. You can get close safely, as we did here, because we approached and stayed on the side of the lake that they did not use or ever cross to.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9VCXRy_mBmgK18ggBFD-tog29AcXLsyQbSQYg-fszyFVrxVx1gShQtDyxlXWpR9NyPPtGLPxQsZkdslDC6LDZcpHCGoMBVgKrbV3BjoGypw-LTRglinK_WVaA93cEK0HZ0U0yeCNaF3o/s1600/IMG_1355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9VCXRy_mBmgK18ggBFD-tog29AcXLsyQbSQYg-fszyFVrxVx1gShQtDyxlXWpR9NyPPtGLPxQsZkdslDC6LDZcpHCGoMBVgKrbV3BjoGypw-LTRglinK_WVaA93cEK0HZ0U0yeCNaF3o/s400/IMG_1355.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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We saw a lot of vehicles packed with people - Phillipa and I were really glad again that Roy Safaris provided our own private guide and vehicle, and we were about to be even more pleased...</div>
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Salvatory pulled into a spot right by the lake and Phillipa and I prepared to munch on a few sandwiches in the Patrol and enjoy the view, as others were. Salvatory hopped out however, and unloaded a fold away table and chairs from the boot. We helped him set this up by the lake in front of the Patrol and he then fetched a huge wicker hamper from the passenger seat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9RImOjip_ecenKa0unJdCzK_xCNOo2O-UanqmiHXAMIi3XZNWd2gcCvkw49bzry9g-PK68GkOlmQr3N2S28WHyKLeeG52zvJNfI37PNP765ptFTW6J5HUjy8VRLxFBlWHKm0rZb3ZHgQ/s1600/IMG_1358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9RImOjip_ecenKa0unJdCzK_xCNOo2O-UanqmiHXAMIi3XZNWd2gcCvkw49bzry9g-PK68GkOlmQr3N2S28WHyKLeeG52zvJNfI37PNP765ptFTW6J5HUjy8VRLxFBlWHKm0rZb3ZHgQ/s320/IMG_1358.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">He even brought a tablecloth!</td></tr>
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It had a full set of china, silver cutlery and more meat, yoghurt, fruit and snacks then we could ever eat in one sitting. We hunkered down with Salvatory and all had piping hot tea from the included flask before diving into the good stuff. People eyed us both greedily and enviously - we loved that of course!! ;-)</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_MrGX_aONWsHPzOX1LCAvCdNNY-YP1Qnyq5uKaUEopurYxcmHpDbbF63WYZ5lgxj5GdpQ-4CcPJZZIUbXw7ZmuNAYkgcV5P6Dt6QVX3OZz23WU4t-KuJYp4lloMHRfuwFeXAhx543_q4/s1600/IMG_1364.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_MrGX_aONWsHPzOX1LCAvCdNNY-YP1Qnyq5uKaUEopurYxcmHpDbbF63WYZ5lgxj5GdpQ-4CcPJZZIUbXw7ZmuNAYkgcV5P6Dt6QVX3OZz23WU4t-KuJYp4lloMHRfuwFeXAhx543_q4/s320/IMG_1364.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We had some company during lunch...</td></tr>
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Tip: (as provided by our awesome guide) When eating at the Ngorongoro rest area ensure that you sit in a circle where possible, and make sure food is either packed away, on route to your mouth or in it. The huge Black Kites (below) would snatch food right out of your hand or mouth if you weren't careful, and they would more than likely take a chunk out of you too... Being in a circle baffles their attack run, and if they can't see the food then they can't grab it!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5VgkbmBZAX9og2z4U1999yIvWvNQlKgXDIstAMt3NxEAwOhm8ERpdToO11oCwAvCANGh4hDT62lngpsvcLRwYtfK66HwOn-NO05iYHAI0N02hiwHz-b_mnKGuwfNJo5BxTasrhXwEMbA/s1600/IMG_1352.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5VgkbmBZAX9og2z4U1999yIvWvNQlKgXDIstAMt3NxEAwOhm8ERpdToO11oCwAvCANGh4hDT62lngpsvcLRwYtfK66HwOn-NO05iYHAI0N02hiwHz-b_mnKGuwfNJo5BxTasrhXwEMbA/s320/IMG_1352.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big buggers - that's the roof of a safari jeep in the bottom right</td></tr>
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This was also where Salvatory found the rock below... This now sits in our garden as Phillipa would not let it stay in the house. This round rock caught Salvatory'e eye as it did not seem to fit in with the surroundings. He plucked it from the mud and washed it in the lake before handing it to me. </div>
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So, I held it, nonplussed. He then explained that the most likely explanation was that it had been used by an elephant as an aid to digestion. Elephants will swallow these rocks, which will help grind and pulp the acacia in their stomach. They will then pop it out like sweetcorn for some strange westerner to hold, and have it slowly dawn on him that it is still pretty much covered in elephant dung...<br />
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So, after washing my hands several times, and packing the rock into a few plastic bags, we were ready to head off for our afternoon drive. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smiling after lunch. I wouldn't be smiling when we angered an old bull elephant on the way back to the lodge...</td></tr>
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Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-15995332986182546882011-09-13T07:10:00.000-07:002011-09-18T13:38:02.899-07:00The first game drive... Yellow Fever ForestJune 20th 2011<br />
Yellow Fever Forest... the first German settlers here dubbed the forest thusly, due to two entirely unconnected reasons. First: the trees are Yellow Acacia, and have a strange appearance, the bark of the tree appearing to have been painted yellow.<br />
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Second: the Germans began suffering from Yellow Fever. We know now that Yellow Fever is transmitted primarily by mosquitos, but I guess back then it was an easy assumption to make. Salvatory assured us the trees were safe ;-)<br />
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As we entered the forest Salvatory stopped the Patrol and turned to smile at us. We smiled back, not comprehending... He gestured out of the window to our right, and Phillipa and I hopped up to view out of the roof.<br />
It took us a little while. We heard the ripping and tearing of the trees, but our foolish urban eyes missed the elephant in front of us for a good while... We started to excitedly jabber about of first elephant spotting when Salvatory pointed out the two others in plain sight.<br />
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Three male elephants, maybe 20 meters away. We had no idea how much closer we would get, and I had no idea just how much they would amaze and terrify me ;-)<br />
We stood in complete awe watching the elephants eat. A gentle munching sound reached us as they pulled at the trees with their trunks, the branches occasionally snapping and punctuating the air with a loud crack. It was remarkably peaceful even so and Phillipa and shared huge grins with each other.<br />
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Then the peace was broken by the jungle equivalent of the urban hoodie. 40 baboons swaggered up to use from the road ahead, chittering, screaming and chasing each other. They put me in mind of a gang of chavs, oblivious to any and all others. Bold as brass they trooped past the elephants, paying them scant regard.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ok, so some were cute</td></tr>
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Salvatory explained that elephants live for around 60 years and it is around 35 years before a male is strong enough to leave the herd. They can be forced out or leave early than this - as early as 16 in some cases, but these younger males cannot compete with all the 35 year olds who are also looking for mates... As we watched, the elephants grabbed some of the bright red Serengeti dust and hurled it over their bodies - back, shoulders, head, sides... Apparently, this serves as both a sunblock and an insect repellent - hell of a lot cheaper and no doubt more effective than the creams, lotions and sprays we packed, used and then regretted wasting money on. Phillipa can get bitten by mosquitoes just thinking about a holiday and many times I saw her eyeing up the dust thoughtfully...<br />
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We headed off along the rutted pathway away from the elephants, Salvatory having to deviate from the road from time to time to avoid the trees that had been pulled down in search of fresh food. The smell of the forest was distinct, but not cloying. It smelt...fresh. I was about to remark on this when we saw a Vevet Monkey on a branch to our right. I have to mention this guy because of his amazing balls - quite a standard looking monkey until he saunters away, or, as would often be the case, open his legs for you, and give you a good glimpse of his bright blue bollocks :-)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lol!</td></tr>
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I had a need to 'see Africa' (Salvatory's phrase for piddling in the bush) and luckily there was a rest stop on the edge of the forest. We were already headed in that direction, and on route passed:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kingfisher</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hyena crossing the stream</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kori Bustard</td></tr>
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We drove into a clearing with a small two room building in the centre. The ladies and gents! Salvatory stopped the Patrol, had a 360 degree look around and then let us out, warning us that the animals are not kept away from here and to keep our eyes open. Phillipa and I both stepped out, stretched, and marvelled at being out of the jeep and in the forest, where we had seen elephants and hyenas just moments before.<br />
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Ablutions finished, I chatted with Salvatory by the Patrol. He explained which animals were making the grunts and whistles we could hear - his knowledge was breathtaking, his passion obvious.<br />
Phillipa strolled back and exclaimed that the toilets were cleaner then many in the UK - she wasn't wrong. The crater is exceptionally well looked after, and you can tell from all of the guides, rangers and caretakers that they love their work, the animals and the evident enjoyment visible on the faces of tourists.<br />
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We headed away from the rest stop, out of the forest and back onto the crater floor. Salvatory was hunting for something, but wouldn't tell us what. Phillipa and I spent the next half an hour or so gazing out of the window, spotting Zebras, Wildebeest and Warthogs going about their day; munching grass, grooming or lazily watching us roll by. I walked to the back of the truck and grabbed a few cans of chilled pop.<br />
The Patrol stayed comfortable, even when bumping over the ruts in the dirt roadways. You need a special permit to drive off these - it keeps the damage done by vehicles to a minimum, which is a very good thing - from a distance you can see what look like great cicatrices stretching across the caldera floor - stopping the proliferation of this is an important part of the rangers work.<br />
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Lost in a daze, Phillipa and I both jumped when Salvatory stopped the Patrol suddenly. He grabbed the binoculars and peered through the windscreen. He turned with a smile and passed the glasses to Phillipa. Without a word he pointed and Phillipa and I, intrigued, hopped up to peer out of the roof, she with her bino's, me with my camera.<br />
It was the only point at which the Canon 75-250mm EFS zoom lens was just not enough. I had gone for stabilization over pure length of zoom - a teleconverter would have been a good addition, as would having plumped for a 300mm lens, but there has to be a limit to buying stuff when I know full well the chances of me carrying on and using it again is very rare indeed...<br />
Anyway...<br />
We then saw... an endangered black rhino...<br />
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<br />Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0Ngorongoro, Tanzania-3.207834 35.463749-3.2395415 35.424267 -3.1761265 35.503231tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-86823447709623251662011-08-27T07:10:00.000-07:002011-09-18T13:37:47.879-07:00The first game drive...June 20th 2011<br />
5.30am is an early start no matter where you are the world, and no matter what you did the day / night before. The strains of The Clash echoing out of my phone carved into my deep sleep and my foggy brain began to fire, slowly. I had no idea where I was. A quick check showed me that Phillipa was next to me, so things couldn't be too bad :-)<br />
Phillipa mumbled her usual, "10 more minutes" as I stumbled out of bed and into the bathroom, straight into the walk in shower big enough for about ten people. Lodge literature had told us that it can take a while for the water to get hot so I let the shower run and brushed my teeth with one of the complementary bottles of water. There was no way at this time of the morning Phillipa was going to join me for some pre-wedding naughtiness so the shower was short. I started to get dressed and tried to rouse my slumbering fiancée at the same time. This normally takes me several attempts and almost always culminates in me yanking off the bed-sheets and having Phillipa swear and give me a look that could cut through steel.<br />
As Phillipa got in the shower I began packing our equipment for the day. Notebook, baby-wipes, sun-cream, mozzie repellent, camera (plus battery pack and lens), phone, wallet, passports. Phillipa came back in the bedroom and asked me to open the curtains as the room faced out over the crater (as do they all at this lodge - <a href="http://www.serenahotels.com/serenangorongoro/default-en.html">http://www.serenahotels.com/serenangorongoro/default-en.html</a>). I opened the curtains to a blackness so deep we could have been in space. Sunrise was a little way off it seemed...<br />
Dressed and ready, we left the room and walked in the cool darkness along the raised wooden pathways to the main lodge building. Past the two open fires and the bar and up the stairs to the restaurant. We were shown to our table and told to help ourselves to the copious buffet, or to order as we saw fit.<br />
I don't know about you, but I struggle to eat that early, and so contented myself with a few eggs and some toast whilst watching Phillipa wolf down cereal, then bacon and eggs, then toast, and then some coffee. I stuck with the Kilimanjaro Tea, and once tried, Phillipa would then avoid the coffee in its favour every day thereafter - we managed to hunt down a pack at Zanzibar airport much later and it still sits in our cupboard today, just a few bags used so far on 'special occasions'.<br />
Breakfast finished, we headed to the reception area and met Salvatory, who walked us to the Patrol and explained that the fog and darkness would disappear as we descended into the crater; and that we were in for some beautiful sights on the way down. The main road around the caldera rim was cold and covered in mist and fog - home away from home...<br />
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We reached the descent road quickly and began to head down. The vegetation on the roadside here was more reminiscent of jungles than of the plains of Africa. Great vines and huge leaves reached across the road towards each other. Combined with the mist it looked like Dagobah...<br />
Salvatory stopped at the guard hut that controls entry and exit to the caldera floor - passes must be checked each day to ensure that the relevant fees have been paid - but all of this had been pre-organised by Nancy at <a href="http://www.aim4africa.com/">http://www.aim4africa.com/</a> and was part of the fee we paid. Nice and easy!<br />
Opposite the hut was an amazing view into the crater. Phillipa was reluctant to leave the vehicle and I couldn't blame her - at this time of the morning, and at this height, it was bloody cold...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFJmdACQ0W5XEXZ4YsicwlPT_HdYjbJJ8PWF1MYpyZdPC2NEWCFdFoteAXpczKNsioGGKZ-8OZgUKbZxzbiE7InDvcAhS3jQXiMDXgJbveGqFlbUa-nq9tsFrMSmH5ALgMDEUy6MpNUKI/s1600/IMG_1027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFJmdACQ0W5XEXZ4YsicwlPT_HdYjbJJ8PWF1MYpyZdPC2NEWCFdFoteAXpczKNsioGGKZ-8OZgUKbZxzbiE7InDvcAhS3jQXiMDXgJbveGqFlbUa-nq9tsFrMSmH5ALgMDEUy6MpNUKI/s320/IMG_1027.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indiana Hatt on the descent road to Ngorongoro!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maasai huts on the descent to the crater floor</td></tr>
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There were two other jeeps, one in front, one behind as we touched the floor of Ngorongoro. </div>
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The whole of the crater was to our left. To our right, the wall of the depression rose up sharply 1500 feet or so, with the top of the rim covered in cloud and mist.</div>
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And then, minutes into our first drive in the crater, Salvatory barked, "There!" and pointed the right. In the distance, perhaps 50 feet away, was a Caracal - a cat very rarely seen in the wild, and not seen in Ngorongoro for over 6 years.<br />
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It sat and watched us quite disinterestedly as Phillipa and cooed and marvelled at the sighting of our first wild animal. Suddenly, the Caracal snapped it's head around and looked intently up the steep slope behind it.<br />
A pride of Lions were heading down the slope. They had been spooked by the Maasai warriors who were headed into the crater to water their herd, and in turn, they had spooked the Caracal.<br />
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This was our first glimpse of a Lion pride, and up close too. Two adult females and fours cubs sat just meters away, tolerating our snapping cameras and our 'oohs' and 'aahhs' for almost 10 minutes before disappearing into the bush...<br />
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The crater floor is over 260 square kilometres, but the game is so abundant we would see 4 of the big five on this first day...<br />
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The Patrol coughed into life when Salvatory realised that the Lions were going to stay hidden from sight. The other jeeps that had been viewing the Lions headed off east, but Salvatory, driving very slowly, spotted plenty of spoor heading in the other direction; we went west, on the way to Yellow Fever Forest...<br />
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On route our path was crossed by:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiigTMlG2B3yH7O2Ga7TNd-iuC0yzf1F-pgaDQfdwCUKFLq9qvTO0JJ0inR6-LZjLiy4JwaKMf_a5NMaQEcXbowsTC9mSfBDyAk9q3dSduyzPDtb-ElB-Ngcs4cw2wSJyovm5WN2U6KB0I/s1600/IMG_1087.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiigTMlG2B3yH7O2Ga7TNd-iuC0yzf1F-pgaDQfdwCUKFLq9qvTO0JJ0inR6-LZjLiy4JwaKMf_a5NMaQEcXbowsTC9mSfBDyAk9q3dSduyzPDtb-ElB-Ngcs4cw2wSJyovm5WN2U6KB0I/s200/IMG_1087.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant Mongoose</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTIcTewn3-d0Q5-l2ckSF3__CxxjjWXqny5HE7WuTdtwIxBOw-Fi6cHoPGGUJtZDg0ZoLJ8bPMo5mbXPCu86ip6F0TQltP8ZBdzRNGvPN8lOjfAhDHZS8SfXi9ptyKJOyfIa8vMAk-Nhc/s1600/IMG_1091.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTIcTewn3-d0Q5-l2ckSF3__CxxjjWXqny5HE7WuTdtwIxBOw-Fi6cHoPGGUJtZDg0ZoLJ8bPMo5mbXPCu86ip6F0TQltP8ZBdzRNGvPN8lOjfAhDHZS8SfXi9ptyKJOyfIa8vMAk-Nhc/s200/IMG_1091.jpg" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tawney Owl</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiNhAggOl8QhO4NGBrfK2CyNky0j9DaJunj0WSnfWpyX2h6Srojc0qP44QOsmuLFRepm33q7xM4R7LIoJiARlPvLo5v35G_kgLA8GWtx_w2QT50QpxV-24IahdWVKPblveAPHYqvsjmTs/s1600/IMG_1096.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiNhAggOl8QhO4NGBrfK2CyNky0j9DaJunj0WSnfWpyX2h6Srojc0qP44QOsmuLFRepm33q7xM4R7LIoJiARlPvLo5v35G_kgLA8GWtx_w2QT50QpxV-24IahdWVKPblveAPHYqvsjmTs/s200/IMG_1096.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wildebeest</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2zPGD7jXPqkU1Fi4-asW_ymUVPvQJDFK-aG5xN8EKECDCrDE-Wx-Qe3LknzYb-Gp8O8VyrRQq_7TswW-ONijZxpLcTeTi2bnLSU_arDQBNPpuCXSTGCad5QDb_MOYEgmfCG3LcajQDE/s1600/IMG_1103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit2zPGD7jXPqkU1Fi4-asW_ymUVPvQJDFK-aG5xN8EKECDCrDE-Wx-Qe3LknzYb-Gp8O8VyrRQq_7TswW-ONijZxpLcTeTi2bnLSU_arDQBNPpuCXSTGCad5QDb_MOYEgmfCG3LcajQDE/s200/IMG_1103.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thompsons Gazelle</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHWdXMDHN764mEq8vRUPMCXLfqI_qnjitrphA7maEhuNGUNZ6VzzTjKnaAuS_UOraevk2MZbGJrQ4b5uozC6AHuUvO3a-e-9looxPdMlQUbLqOlk0IO4ufxU5Qu9-LlcP9bQ31QfJVTmQ/s1600/IMG_1109.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHWdXMDHN764mEq8vRUPMCXLfqI_qnjitrphA7maEhuNGUNZ6VzzTjKnaAuS_UOraevk2MZbGJrQ4b5uozC6AHuUvO3a-e-9looxPdMlQUbLqOlk0IO4ufxU5Qu9-LlcP9bQ31QfJVTmQ/s200/IMG_1109.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zebra!!</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvaommjtbpLsRnefiA0MDYDbQiqFMymMz7XopCY5LvKdnq9MSnuVkdhE2W5AzEpnq03GrUmGIcc0l7-5e02upjQL7HAXbawF1aVATQqOjf_X37dwZJiPdXQ1kx6_Db8jeFuW8PC7CLnw/s1600/IMG_1112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLvaommjtbpLsRnefiA0MDYDbQiqFMymMz7XopCY5LvKdnq9MSnuVkdhE2W5AzEpnq03GrUmGIcc0l7-5e02upjQL7HAXbawF1aVATQqOjf_X37dwZJiPdXQ1kx6_Db8jeFuW8PC7CLnw/s200/IMG_1112.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Egyptian goose</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluoT4zw6mREyzwdMsN3otlKtzNMcXwg1_ofIDWY7jNOYssu4XneSBbmw2gYkYJJOxAnDSkZyIvmKXr3QDajYbqDtWNsC2cn-5hBphGdFDN_E08vncP1xWZKe86zxL2g5-wXfuDEIepCc/s1600/IMG_1113.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhluoT4zw6mREyzwdMsN3otlKtzNMcXwg1_ofIDWY7jNOYssu4XneSBbmw2gYkYJJOxAnDSkZyIvmKXr3QDajYbqDtWNsC2cn-5hBphGdFDN_E08vncP1xWZKe86zxL2g5-wXfuDEIepCc/s200/IMG_1113.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic shot of Buffalo Horns</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlGehQfms8l7NIe3EBeIovvHL2BqPJPPCJFsHOdT__6BPVRl23dyCG0Aj0fqixHBHqZjuDs6TnyvwcMI5ksu9SGZZM_50B75t12ygsQFY9hoV47U27v_UF3_9OrDrmO1OxQIBrTlwPPwY/s1600/IMG_1122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlGehQfms8l7NIe3EBeIovvHL2BqPJPPCJFsHOdT__6BPVRl23dyCG0Aj0fqixHBHqZjuDs6TnyvwcMI5ksu9SGZZM_50B75t12ygsQFY9hoV47U27v_UF3_9OrDrmO1OxQIBrTlwPPwY/s200/IMG_1122.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spotted Hyena</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZv7woqevSu3-PIC1Zh3eYYlbYsD-ZAXX5fLs6eMRwQH6PsxWYWaoR_XF5w0aIpBL8p-Zkhe2k7x-FLJGE43DYWOgc-CfdhZEE7nMX029pcsT_60itfUSvrVQQ74UPmNrQwhW4wPydiC8/s1600/IMG_1130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZv7woqevSu3-PIC1Zh3eYYlbYsD-ZAXX5fLs6eMRwQH6PsxWYWaoR_XF5w0aIpBL8p-Zkhe2k7x-FLJGE43DYWOgc-CfdhZEE7nMX029pcsT_60itfUSvrVQQ74UPmNrQwhW4wPydiC8/s200/IMG_1130.jpg" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Warthog</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOtHLWyl4MaY59LwzfoeTDqz7g2CQFIJUwnDDk0xHkzC8ja4ZxtE4PppHASWSvUo2K33S2KXcO1_yGq5UaemFvm_JvqPlvj_P3ezFnK2K2o7zEaY1qlT__s4wKSzuj7XRUljL_fP2HtAU/s1600/IMG_1135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOtHLWyl4MaY59LwzfoeTDqz7g2CQFIJUwnDDk0xHkzC8ja4ZxtE4PppHASWSvUo2K33S2KXcO1_yGq5UaemFvm_JvqPlvj_P3ezFnK2K2o7zEaY1qlT__s4wKSzuj7XRUljL_fP2HtAU/s200/IMG_1135.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They crouch like this as their necks can't bend enough to reach the ground!</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVY-Cw9WLZXSdylukkDVwk-V_YsnwbVdEGsKLXteApXX3kIf8_6BaNONvNaSI5OZuCwyUh-ynPCXwYOmX1Eq4vwr21IJatEmblxMBStNq41g0UPhsX9Qio84AM8M3SeaI45RucGkpY3Sc/s1600/IMG_1144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVY-Cw9WLZXSdylukkDVwk-V_YsnwbVdEGsKLXteApXX3kIf8_6BaNONvNaSI5OZuCwyUh-ynPCXwYOmX1Eq4vwr21IJatEmblxMBStNq41g0UPhsX9Qio84AM8M3SeaI45RucGkpY3Sc/s200/IMG_1144.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grants Gazelle (no black stripe on side)</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR5ENp-aVj4Yg5FzpCboKfZ9v1iN75ZZsAbGrVnc2rqhXaWoDMFqqodFEu7mzW9yimsTVSOu1Lo_ATfxQTMoJromw7MbuoCjg7FwAhOJaCoAxRHc2C1pRZeZ252goK3Lcnfq1ozohf_qs/s1600/IMG_1149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjR5ENp-aVj4Yg5FzpCboKfZ9v1iN75ZZsAbGrVnc2rqhXaWoDMFqqodFEu7mzW9yimsTVSOu1Lo_ATfxQTMoJromw7MbuoCjg7FwAhOJaCoAxRHc2C1pRZeZ252goK3Lcnfq1ozohf_qs/s200/IMG_1149.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having a scratch :-)</td></tr>
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<br />Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-84438509555274464932011-08-15T12:37:00.000-07:002011-09-18T13:37:30.588-07:00Arusha and onwards...June 19th 2011<br />
Arusha airport is a real hive of activity; on the tarmac at least. We hopped down from the Cessna and weaved through the many aircraft, following the ground crew who had taken our luggage. They chatted amiably about where we were from, the weather, the flight and Tanzania.<br />
The walk was short and we entered a large tin-roofed building. Air-conditioning was supplied by open doors at both ends of the building. Fancy.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJQ7YRp2Gs9rX-jx7lU6iBR7nX5gD559Q-Kforf9F0x2WxWJA6DPdW9mrzXa60vgVFPDgzK324EUErmJfM2APQJhK7VBblyFOn2NPvnQ3FtZjdOxRB9d2fZysPdiByG9uK_QmcMXSvNI/s1600/IMG_0964a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaJQ7YRp2Gs9rX-jx7lU6iBR7nX5gD559Q-Kforf9F0x2WxWJA6DPdW9mrzXa60vgVFPDgzK324EUErmJfM2APQJhK7VBblyFOn2NPvnQ3FtZjdOxRB9d2fZysPdiByG9uK_QmcMXSvNI/s320/IMG_0964a.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Through the exit was a large locked gate, where the guides for Arusha await fresh travellers. A few held ripped and dirty sheets of A4 paper with passenger names scribbled on them, though most were just waiting on an opportunity.<br />
There was one, large khaki Nissan Patrol next to a tall man with a beaming smile who was to become a very good friend to us over the next six days - Salvatory. He held up a bright 'Roy Safari' sign (the firm he worked for and we booked <a href="http://www.roysafaris.com/home-page.html">http://www.roysafaris.com/home-page.html</a>) which had our names printed on in large type. Our bags were taken over to our new transport and Salvatory supervised the loading, taking a <i>huge </i>amount of care over Phillipa's dress, as he would throughout our entire stay.<br />
He then introduced himself and bade us welcome into the truck. Inside were bottles of water in holders next to our seats, and a mini fridge full of Coke, Sprite, water and snacks. He explained that this would be our personal vehicle, and that he would be our guide from now until he dropped us at Grumetti Airstrip in 6 days time.<br />
Salvatory asked us about the trip as he pulled the jeep out of the airport and aimed us towards Arusha town - in turn we relaxed, stretched and popped open some cokes.<br />
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The road to Arusha was part paved, part mud. All along the way people thronged the edge of the road. Colourful dress was the order of the day, and whilst clothes might have been old and ill-fitting, they were clean, pressed and obviously a source of pride (the guidebook also highlighted this - Tanzanians hate sloppy / rumpled clothes).<br />
We moved along the road at a slow pace, partly for Salvatory to tell us more about his home town and partly as traffic lines, laws and lights are non-existent. No-one was rushing though, and hands were waved and horns beeped in warning with a cheery smile. Everyone either knew Salvatory or wanted to chat and we stopped often in the road, a car on the other side with windows down and the driver happily gassing away. We always got a happy 'Jambo' from them too. We had been on the ground in Africa for less than 30 mins and we felt completely at home.<br />
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As we passed deeper into Arusha more and more markets sprang up alongside the main road. These are sprawling affairs, covering huge areas. Some produce was stacked on makeshift tables, but most was on the floor. But great care in taken in presentation - mangos and other fruits are piled high in pyramids and laid out in concentric circles and it creates a beautiful riot of colour against the dark dust and mud of the ground, and the stark grey of the wooden buildings.<br />
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What looked like Toyota Previas were everywhere. Each had been brightly painted, and many bore marks of favoured bands / films. We saw Michael Jackson plastered all over one, Scarface on another; even one with 'Reggae-Bastard Bass Beats' covering the back window... These are the famed Dala-Dalas - the local bus service. Many will buy these small people carriers, paint them up to reflect, well, whatever the hell they want, and then drive around, taking people up and down Arusha, to the airport even to other towns.<br />
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We hit the Roy Safari compound after about 20 minutes. The gates were a good 8 foot tall, and manned by a guard. He opened up a small hatch in the gate, verified the vehicle and guide and opened up. We got out, stretched and went in to meet Riwanda, who talked us through the whole itinerary of our trip. The room was large and cool, with a white tiled floor and comfortable settees interspersed with several desks and PCs. We were passed our flying doctor certs and our tickets for the Zanzibar to Dar flight on our final day as well as some awesome Roy Safari t-shirts :-)<br />
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We paused for a few photos and then sauntered next door to the African Tulip for lunch.<br />
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The setting was beautiful, with a small waterfall running through the restaurant, and here we got our first taste of Tusker (apart from a half at Akamba!). Hooked...<br />
We left the African Tulip and headed back to the compound and into the Patrol. We made one stop in Arusha - to the main indoor supermarket... We stocked up on batteries (for the torches in the Patrol - just in case we had some late evening drives) and a few coffee milkshakes for Phillipa.<br />
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Back in the Patrol, Salvatory started us on the long drive to the Ngorongoro crater... We drove through numerous small towns, each a riot of colourful clothes, women with firewood on their heads, children hauling plastic tubs of water and baboons, baboons, baboons...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx2rc32MZ9bT3GeMu9NcBWW3CHNtu91UGlTYzMVqVhX6a_1AxRibc7FgDllbyw1T7k2Qcx467x1uSASy2r41MSGolcVvVsQcjfExyR5lq4a_ZHpvo-gtGqyatIAfFqMlxp8obdAojl0I0/s1600/IMG_0958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx2rc32MZ9bT3GeMu9NcBWW3CHNtu91UGlTYzMVqVhX6a_1AxRibc7FgDllbyw1T7k2Qcx467x1uSASy2r41MSGolcVvVsQcjfExyR5lq4a_ZHpvo-gtGqyatIAfFqMlxp8obdAojl0I0/s320/IMG_0958.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coffee Plantation!</td></tr>
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We saw groups of women walking with fruit, and each holding a machete - these were to protect themselves from the baboons that wondered through the towns, bold as brass. On many occasions they would need to fight for the food they had gathered.<br />
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We heard 'Jambo' every time we slowed enough to hear people through the windows and got a hundred waves and smiles at every town.<br />
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Along the isolated stretches of road between each township we saw Maasai villages dotted around, tiny in the huge expanse of the plains. Maasai children were working late, keeping an eye on the herds in the bright afternoon sunshine.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUvWAguxZlFs3LN6oHC6zDYZVsYJERUEe5LYo7pvMeqz1jVIMhnn1cEASHPxfi5eZbrYhyphenhyphenzZBOcfhhQin8U3yxUiumYtxSZ8l2X1B1N3DsIzk5OTlWAjmBQaiE36G0TBFMRvgNxOXZAE/s1600/IMG_0968.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQUvWAguxZlFs3LN6oHC6zDYZVsYJERUEe5LYo7pvMeqz1jVIMhnn1cEASHPxfi5eZbrYhyphenhyphenzZBOcfhhQin8U3yxUiumYtxSZ8l2X1B1N3DsIzk5OTlWAjmBQaiE36G0TBFMRvgNxOXZAE/s320/IMG_0968.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coming back from Church</td></tr>
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Salvatory stopped on the roadside and bade us hop out to see the termite mounds. He stepped up to check one over before getting us to pose nearby for a photo.<br />
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He told us after that he checked for large holes - a series of large holes will normally mean that predators, snakes in the main, will have entered into the mound and it can therefore be pretty damn dangerous to get too close.<br />
We walked back from the mound, our feet scuffing the white powder-like dust and caught a small twister before hopping back into the Patrol.<br />
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Then... Ngorongoro...<br />
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We entered the main gate:<br />
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As a conservation area, it is a heavily guarded place, with very strict entry and exit times; to the crater itself as well as the main game area on the caldera floor. A quick toilet break - made difficult as baboons capered on the roof above us and then we were through the gate and onto a road surrounded by the lushest jungle vegetation I have ever seen. The ridge of the crater is 2000ft above the floor, and the whole ecosystem is different at the ridge and the floor.<br />
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It was getting dark, but Salvatory pulled over and sheperded us out of the Patrol and over a break in the trees on the right hand side of the road. We stood there, 2000ft up and saw the caldera laid out before us. Small dark shapes, looking like trees and woods were in fact herds of Wildebeest and Buffalo. The scale of the thing was breathtaking; 260 square kilometres, and 3 million years old...<br />
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It was a short drive from the viewpoint to our first lodge, the Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge. Set on top of the ridge of the crater, with all of the rooms facing into the caldera below.<br />
We had just enough time to have a drink by the roaring log fire, some food in the restaurant above and then we were off to bed... Ready for our first Safari drive early the next morning...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Too dark to see on camera, but the whole crater stretches out in front of us here...</td></tr>
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Tusker baby... :-)<br />
<br />Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-52753494476429817632011-08-14T07:13:00.000-07:002011-09-13T07:14:26.039-07:00Departure and arrival...June 18th 2011<br />
After slightly more than nine and half hours we stepped out of our air conditioned cocoon and into Dar Es Salaam airport. The country was hidden from view as we were shepherded through the umbilical-like tunnel that had sealed onto the side of our plane, down stairs that were smooth with age and yellowed with nicotine, and into the queue for immigration.<br />
Some of our plane-pals split off to join a separate queue for a visa - if you ever go to Tanzania make sure you get one beforehand at Tanzania House in London; the room was as hot as a sauna and the less time spent there the better.<br />
Immigration is the same everywhere in the world, with bored, disaffected civil servants who appear to take no pleasure at all in life. We ran the biometrics - left and right hand fingerprint scanners - had our visas and passports checked, and then we were through.<br />
Four small carousels greeted us, but they were not on a loop and so the ground staff took off and piled up the luggage on one side. I elbowed past both old and young, in no mood to mess having not slept for 24 hours...<br />
Bags collected, we met our Coastal Air rep - we were over two hours late, but this is Africa and so they had kept our connecting flight waiting (it helped that there were about six of us on the delayed BA flight...). Our bags were collected and we were escorted out into the bright sunshine for a hundred yards or so to a knackered old minibus.<br />
The driver hopped in, gave me a smile and a brief, 'Welcome to Tanzania' (pronounced Tan-ZAN-ia), then started up the 'bus and drove us off.<br />
We headed only a mile or so, along a road running the outer edge of the airport to a part of the airfield for smaller / local flights. The road screamed Africa... People with firewood on their heads, hawkers selling fruit, and colour, colour, colour everywhere...<br />
We passed through security after only a cursory check of luggage weights and contents, and were straight out again onto the airfield filled with Cessna Caravans, Grand Caravans and Twin Otters (along with some sleeker, obviously more 'personal' transport).<br />
Another walk across burning hot tarmac and to our plane...<br />
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It took only moments to load up the bags of the 12 or so passengers; the ground staff unceremoniously stuffing them all into the hold, though making sure the weight was distributed evenly across the Cessna via the use of several doors. I kept a hold of Phillipa's wedding dress as we were told we could hang it in the back of the passenger compartment. I waited whilst everyone boarded, noting with dismay that the seat next to Phillipa was taken already. Our pilot, the spit of Robert Redford, approached with a small tan briefcase in hand wearing an open neck short-sleeve shirt with khakis and loafers. And of course, dark shades. No matter the size of the plane, no matter the country, all fly-boys love their shades!<br />
I installed the dress carefully in the back the plane and went to board, only to be told there was now no room. I was still too jaded from the BA overnight to worry much, and meekly followed directions - to the front of the plane, where I was told to sit in the co-pilot seat...<br />
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Balls...</div>
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The pilot started the prop, gave a thumbs up to the cheery ground crew, and taxied to the runway. As we taxied, his hands flickered over the controls: Flaps Check, Trim Check, Torque Lock, Radar Check... All these checks were completed on the way to our take-off and I was fascinated and horrified in equal measure that it took almost no time at all...<br />
We turned into the wind and Robert increased the power, putting the prop into overdrive and getting us up to take-off speed. The plane began to squirrel across the tarmac as we started to break friction and gain lift and we left the ground quickly but gracefully, but the angle felt severe compared to a jet and I was already regretting the entire trip...<br />
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I turned to check if Phillipa was ok and noted with no little annoyance that she was already asleep. My 5 point harness restricted movement and so I spent my time watching the pilot, and, as I got more comfortable, taking some snaps:<br />
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On the approach to Arusha:</div>
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We had a few bouts of turbulence, but I could see them coming on the radar, which checked the clouds for other aircraft, but also showed the changes in density - places we could expect some bumps. Robert was cool and calm at all times though and it soon rubbed off on me. He never did offer my one of his cookies from his little Tupperware container though and for that I shall never forgive him...<br />
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But he did provide a sweet landing:<br />
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So, we were at Arusha...<br />
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but we still had a way to go...</div>
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Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0Dar es Salaam, Tanzania-6.822921 39.269661000000042-7.003954 39.028643500000044 -6.641888 39.51067850000004tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-46068402513885264072011-07-29T04:49:00.000-07:002011-07-29T04:49:52.068-07:00UpdateWe're back...<br />
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Internet access was just not available to the degree that we could blog on the move, but thanks to my Midori Travellers Journal (<a href="http://www.miscellaneous-store.com/">http://www.miscellaneous-store.com/</a> €39.90), we have a full breakdown of the safari, the wedding and the honeymoon - albeit in 'analogue' format :-)<br />
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As I want to write a blog, and I can't think of anything else to write about, I'm going to write all the details out from my journal and include plenty of pictures.<br />
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Hopefully it'll be a nice digital reminder of what was, without a doubt, the most amazing thing I have done with my life so far...Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-59303554741013815202011-02-28T06:49:00.000-08:002011-02-28T06:49:35.864-08:00Virgin's Flying Without FearCured... Flying is now sexy<br />
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Had an awesome day. Technical info, relaxation techniques and perhaps most importantly, recognising the pattern of fear and breaking it. We got bombarded with information, and stuff to take home:<br />
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Did you know, for example, that during take-off, the angle of the plane is just 15 degrees?? Feels a lot more, and this is down to not being able to see forward. Our brains know we are moving forward, but can only see sideways, and as a consequence it is like we are blind - our inner ears therefore take over. But our inner ears are not designed for flight, and over-exaggerate every tiny movement. That's why pilots hardly ever feel turbulence - because they are looking forward (and they are at the front, which helps too in a 280ft plane).<br />
Try this trick if you hate turbulence. Get a glass of water, beer, wine (whatever's your poison) and hold it in front of yourself on an outstretched palm. Look at the liquid. I guarantee you it is hardly moving at all. Imagine if you did that in a car...it'd spill everywhere. It's your inner-ear baby - lying about what's happening because it's not built for it. Look at the liquid and pretty much straight away the turbulence fades as you realise that the plane is actually moving less than your car...<br />
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I ended up being cool and calm in the departure lounge (even taking a photo of the plane!)<br />
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The pilot who lectured on how the planes work etc was a superstar. Everything about planes and flying was 'sexy' - it was infectious, and I found myself enjoying the flight. Genuinely. Looked out of the window through take-off, landing, banking... You name it, I saw it. And loved it!<br />
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My favourite quote of his came when he was asked about air pockets:<br />
Captain Steve: "Word association. Say that again."<br />
Fearful flyer: "Air pockets."<br />
Captain Steve: "Bullshit."<br />
He went on to joke, "You know how, when you're walking down the street, and the air disappears, and you fall to the ground?" - some people actually nodded... "It's rubbish, air pockets cannot physically exist. Next question?"<br />
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Anyone who is scared, or even someone who just doesn't like it / feels uncomfortable, should go and register for this course. Phillipa will be beyond shocked at the difference between me before the course, and me now.<br />
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Check it out:<br />
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Little bit more like Tony Stark every day... :-)<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I will baby, I will :-)</div>Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-31431375219049531322011-02-24T05:16:00.000-08:002011-02-24T05:16:54.339-08:00Fear of FlyingOnly two more days before my course: <a href="http://www.flyingwithoutfear.info/">http://www.flyingwithoutfear.info/</a><br />
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Normally I would be worried about a flight that's taking place in just a few days, but I'm actually fine. I'm wondering if part of the whole process is that I already expect to feel ok on the plane as the bulk of the course is before the 45min flight.<br />
I'm already daydreaming about being cool and relaxed on the plane, when normally I imagine myself being terrified - I'm sure that this new mindset (y'know, looking forward to the course as it should cure me) is all part of it. I hope that the course adds a lot more though otherwise it'a a bit of a waste of money...<br />
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I would pay a lot more to avoid my usual shaking, sweating and swearing however. As would Phillipa.Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-88115710943161801392011-02-22T04:04:00.000-08:002011-02-25T07:20:01.302-08:00PaperworkWe have to provide the company sorting our adventure (Aim4Africa - <a href="http://www.aim4africa.com/">www.aim4africa.com</a> ) with not only our passports and birth certificates, but also a document from an advocate stating that we have not been married before. Easy enough, but we also need to state what religion we are...<br />
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Neither of us believe in God (yet I still write His name in capitals?) but I've heard that in Muslim countries it is better to say you are Christian that say you have no religion. I'm wondering if we should just go the whole hog and convert to Islam before we go... <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px;">As-</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px;"><em style="font-style: normal;">Salaam</em></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px;">-</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: x-small; line-height: 15px;"><em style="font-style: normal;">Alaikum :-) </em></span>Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9139825824330006032.post-75011556564462732192011-02-20T13:06:00.000-08:002011-02-20T13:06:22.648-08:00117 days to go...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfEOaTeV_LcAAog0Hy-L2k_T8ETg1aOuaOsN1e-VeHFR2sNSFo5hF5RtU6QXg1mB8sLmfq2N5SaK64zRs3raf7-Xk90T-79shIfeO97rNAQjDXLzeS5-8YEirhZGMTFXyvT-Su5_FGEes/s1600/ngserena.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="230" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfEOaTeV_LcAAog0Hy-L2k_T8ETg1aOuaOsN1e-VeHFR2sNSFo5hF5RtU6QXg1mB8sLmfq2N5SaK64zRs3raf7-Xk90T-79shIfeO97rNAQjDXLzeS5-8YEirhZGMTFXyvT-Su5_FGEes/s320/ngserena.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Well, with 117 days to go we are nearly ready. We confirm the actual wedding details next week, but the bulk is complete. We fly to Tanzania on the 18th June and spend a few days on Safari at the Ngorongoro Crater, then move on to the Kirawira Tented Camp for more animal action and the wedding.<br />
After that, we fly to Zanzibar for a honeymoon at a private villa, the Matemwe Retreat.<br />
All in all, we have about 26 hours of flights, and so I'm off to my fear of flying course next Sunday (27th February). This is with Virgin, based at Birmingham. They say that they have a 98% success rate. Fingers crossed...<br />
I'll update from the airport most likely :-)Words from the Wookiehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10190873614993234674noreply@blogger.com0